I don't even know why the contractor put in the insulation. I would treat the utility room as conditioned space and insulate the outside wall, though not with fiberglass. Unless both the heater and furnace are completely sealed units with air supply and exhaust outside the home, there are mandatory provisions for ventilation. I'd check the manufacturer's booklets for specs. Exposed fibreglass is not a health hazard, but if the fg is disturbed it will irritate most people.

I'd leave the poly off the floor. The place for it was beneath the slab. All it will do if it's tight enough is accumulate water under it. Building Science Corp. recommends two layers of 1/2" ply on the floor. The XYPEX may be overkill. I have used it, but only where there was a concern as the excavation revealed visible rivulets of water. Utility trumps looks. Always keep the floor drains and cleanouts available after insulation! If you choose not to insulate the utility room wall, still insulate and seal the rim joist area, as this is always the greatest source of air leaks and heat transfer. If you do not insulate the bathroom floor, someone's bare feet will be icy cold in winter. Here is a link that might be useful: Basement Insulation Systems

Hi jgirl,Your doing it the smart way not roofing until after stucco.Out here,in order to insulate and dry wall, it has to be roofed and lathed, but cant be stucco'd until after drywall. I dont subscribe to the theory that hanging drywall will knock stucco off the walls, but that's what the county wants in the order they want it, so we gotta do it their way or the highway. We will face the chance that the stucco crew will slop on our shingles.They seem pretty professional in the way they lathed the house cleaning up after themselves and we asked them to be careful with the roof. They said that's a standard practice on all their projects to keep the shingled areas covered and they come highly refered to us, so i hope it works out. The route you are taking is the best route,imo. Scratch/brown coating is the first two coats of cementious based coats that are applied before the acrylic color coat. The scratch coat is applied rough, then the brown which is smooth and corners formed,(bullnose in our case),and somewhat smooth.Those two coats are allowed to sit for 30 days to allow for cracking, then the color coat.We are going for an old world texture.Best of luck on the rest of your build.

Wouldn't it be easier & cheaper to rip out & repair the drywall ceiling in the basement than the subfloor in the kitchen? Also consider that it's difficult and sorta dangerous to work in a space without subfloor. It would really suck, for example, if someone fell through the floor into the basement, in which case you'd have to repair the floor, ceiling, and person that fell. Also wondering if you need insulation in the floor since it separates two finished, environmentally controlled, spaces - I'm guessing it's for sound attenuation? Some folks claim that insulation like this helps a lot with sound attenuation, but the scientific studies that I was able to find suggested that it doesn't provide significant benefit.