I agree with Champ, although the tree might let you straighten it some without disrupting the roots too much, but it probably makes more sense to wait until it drops its leaves. Make sure the soil is very wet and if the tree doesn't easily straighten carefully fork out as much root as you are willing to fight for and replant in a straight position. Metal electric conduit tubing makes an excellent, inexpensive and readily available stake. Lowes and Home D. carry it.

If it were me, I *think* I'd plant them with the short side of the "L" pointing up. Since you are only talking about 2" of the trunk being horizontal, I think this would become almost unnoticeable in the long run even if they didn't straighten up on their own. If they are just the size of a pencil, you might be able to encourage them to straighten up by tying them up. It's hard to judge well without being there and seeing them. If they don't shape up for you, you could always cut them back and let them resprout in late winter/very early spring later on. It doesn't make Forest Farm look very good to ship out stuff like this and then not pay at least return shipping. It seems they kind of want to stick you with costs even though it's not your fault. You might consider posting a review on Garden Watchdog. Forest Farm has a pretty good record so far, but if they are going to pull this kind of stuff, it wouldn't hurt to let people know about it. Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Watchdog

Stakes are to keep a tree upright until the roots develop enough to support the tree by themselves. Stakes should not be used to "pull" a tree straight. It should have been planted straight in the beginning. Stakes should be tied by rubbers to the tree loosely. Allowing the tree to move in the wind (which aids in root development) without blowing over enough to break or dislodge the roots. This being said, if you have a tree that has an established root system, but is growing crooked you can trim the tree to an upright habit or stake the high part. This staking will be to coerce an upright leader and will be very different from the establishment staking. I suggest researching the topic or taking a class from the local extension service or local arborist. P.S. clear a 2 foot ring around the tree and mulch the area. The tree will triple its growth rate and become more vigorous.

Hey Ken, Thanks for the response! I haven't pruned this tree save that one branch last year and some dead stuff, because I thought it ought to become established better before doing anything. If you can see all the old pruned branches, that wasn't me. You ask if I know how to prune... not by any of your standards, no. I've never been trained by anyone who knows a thing or two about trees - and that's why I'm here! The lowest branch is about 2.5-3' from the ground. The next (same side) somewhere around 4'. Obviously, they're too low, but there's a whole lot of foliage coming from those two branches and I'm hesitant to take them off. From what I understand I should have done it after bloom, but I really had no idea they would become that heavy. Silly me, yes. Please forgive my ineptitude. The stake was put in because the tree was side heavy and leaning even further under its own weight last year. I wanted to remove the lower branches, but hubby wouldn't let me. The stake is still supporting this weight (I tried earlier), obviously because the tree hasn't grown too much on the other side and the heavy side has just gotten heavier... I need to alleviate that weight, I assume. So, yes, please forgive this newb. I want to learn and understand, I really do.. it's just something I never make time for and, well, learning off the web is dubious at best. I'm attaching a few pictures below. Sorry I only attached the one last time. It was just because it only lets you do one and I had kids to tend to. :/