I'm having a hard time figuring out what exactly you are concerned about - is it just the part sticking out to the side, or is it having a 1" strip underneath the bottom of the cabinets? Having a small strip underneath is normal, I have five different heights of my uppers, and the smallest peice I have is a strip about 3/8" wide. I didn't want a partial tile sitting on top of the cabinet, so what I had under the uppers was what ever it ended up being. Though I can't see the full look of the uppers, I think if they border the door, I'd go up to the top of the door frame with them, especially if they are the same color as the door frame. Another option is to notch a tile so you have a full width along side the cabinet and the notch slips underneath. Or get a fancy pencil trim and "outline" the subway and line it up with the lowers and end at the base of the uppers. BTW - I love that blue!

I like your attitude and advice, Jancy. I do love my choice of countertop (Silestone Cemento Suede), which I paired with natural cherry shaker cabinets (3" wide rails and stiles) with orb hardware. I was going for a simple, warm modern farmhouse look. The kitchen is around 7' x 12." Three straight sides, no corner cabinets: a pantry wall with fridge (approximately 7'), an island with sink (approximately 7'), and a wall with range and otr microwave in the middle (approximately 7'). So my range wall is of similar length as yours, Jancy (90'). That wall is the only one with a backsplash and like you, I didn't want to deal with grout. I also liked the simplicity of the full-height backsplash... and, as a bonus, I had the extra material available from the countertop slabs, so I only needed to pay a bit extra for installation. Also, another consideration is that the kitchen is part of a great room and is visible as soon as you walk in the door, so it felt as if the stone backsplash would give the cabinet more of the look of furniture. I definitely don't want tile (even though I said earlier that might be an option). I would consider a stainless steel plate with brushed finish because it feels as if that would tie the range and microwave together... as if they were all one unit. However, the wall may be too short and the stainless too industrial for the look I'm going for. I do know however that I will not be happy if the stone gets chipped if I have to replace the microwave. In answer to your question, prosource, I believe the microwave will be fairly level with the bottom of the cabinets. The opening is 18" high and the microwave is 17 1/2" high. Also, I don't want to get off subject, but at some point, Jance, I would be very interested in knowing if you used plug mold and, if so, what kind. Or did you put outlets in backsplash? All thoughts welcome.

"Just follow the Money" to determine who is acting as what. As mentioned, if you pay the designer and the designer sources and pays the trades under their business then the designer is acting as a CG. If the home owner pays the trades directly then the homeowner is acting as the GC. Home owners are free to hire/employee who ever they wish. The designer however when acting as a GC is required to be appropriately licensed, this also requires them to carry insurance along with the responsibility to ensure that the sub trades are also appropriately licensed, insured and covered by Workman Compensation. When it comes to residential renovation/remodeling work there are many out there that are performing the role as a GC without the appropriate license to do so. As a home owner you should request a copy of their license and proof of insurance, you need to know that if something goes wrong the GC can cover it. Also, in most regions when the home owner hires and pays trades the home owner is actually considered as an employer and as such the home owner has certain responsibilities as an employer.

Without having photos of the areas where you are planning to go to the ceiling, it's hard to say. I think you should be consistent if possible and try to do the whole walls if tile goes to the ceiling everywhere else. There could be some difficulty getting the tile in these small areas, though, so it depends on your tile person and whether they feel comfortable with the small cuts.