Anyone else here heat with fuel oil?
3 years ago
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- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoseagrass_gw Cape Cod thanked LoneJack Zn 6a, KC
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Anyone here give advice on heating system diasters?
Comments (1)We had a gas/steam system and had the gas company replace ours when we were up there. Usually they will give a great deal to convert to gas and I strongly recommend gas over oil If you insist on staying with oil the company that delivers your heating oil usually does service and will give you a good deal as an existing customer....See MoreHeating Oil is $4.60 a Gallon here
Comments (9)"I looked up "heat punp" on Wikipedia and don't understand it. I mean, I understand the physics aspect of it but not how it works in your house." - A heat pump is simply a central air conditioning unit that has a reversing valve and produces heat in the winter and a/c in the summer. If you have existing ductwork for a central a/c system, you're good to go for a heat pump....See MoreAnyone else here worried about early bud break due to extreme temps?
Comments (25)Alana, I'm colder than your zone so some of my experience might not apply, but once the roses (and bulbs) start growing, there's nothing I can do to convince them to stop. They might get a bit frost nipped here and there, but unless you get weather returning to the 20's for several days in a row (and that's all day, not just a brief tip in the night), you should be fine. Apparently roses when they first start growing in spring have nature's equivalent of "antifreeze" in their canes and they're more insulated against cold snaps than they are later in the season. Roses like the rest of the garden are reading a multitude of factors that you may not be aware of (e.g. day length, soil temperature, moisture), and they usually know what they're doing or can recover from it if not. As for pruning, I prune off obviously dead wood as soon as the crocus and such come up, which is before the official forsythia blooming start to pruning season. Dead wood is dead, and the rose doesn't know you've cut it until you get into live cane. If you're worried that it's too early to prune, leave an inch or so of probably dead wood on the tips, and it'll just be a haircut to the rose, not a stimulus to start growing more cane. Once you can tell that the rose has indeed given up on that cane, and you feel better about stimulating growth, you can do a second round of pruning to get rid of those stubs. In my zone, we always have to do 2 or 3 rounds of pruning to get rid of cane that was only temporarily alive in the spring, so this isn't unusual for us. Bottom line for me is I prune off dead wood as soon as I feel like being out in the garden, and then do a more detailed prune once the leaves are definitely emerging. I figure if it has leaves it's going to be subject to weather variations with or without my pruning, and I want to get it done before planting season starts. Cynthia...See MoreHas anyone switched from heating oil to propane?
Comments (15)Stuff Sales Did Not Tell You If you have access to natural gas, it will be the lowest cost per BTU output. These days, high efficiency natural gas furnaces are available that approaches 95% efficiency. However, these require a completely new installation and most do not use the existing chimneys. The furnace intake and exhaust passes through a pair of 4 to 6 inch diameter holes in an outside wall. For basement installations, the favored place for these holes is through the joist header on an outside wall. The location of these tubes may be a problem for existing houses. In snow country, these should be located such that those will not be blocked by snow. These high efficiency furnaces extract so much heat from the exhaust that water vapor condenses out and a drain must be provided for this. Normally, this drain is small diameter tubing routed to a floor drain. The same drain is used for the air cooling coils if installed. If you have another appliance that uses the chimney such as a water heater, a liner will be placed in the chimney. Removal of chimney exhaust from an older furnace causes the chimney to run too cool and condensation from a gas fired water heater will collect on the walls. This acidic condensate may attack the chimney mortar and liner. That the reason for a liner. Another reason is to combat ice build-up in cold climates. Here in Wisconsin, chimneys have frozen shut in winter with disastrous results. This rarely happened with low efficiency furnaces, but resurfaced with high efficiency furnaces. These high efficiency furnaces use an electronic control board that manages a variety of functions, whereas older furnaces had mostly electo-mechacnical controls. The controls for those older furnaces had been developed and used over many years and were reliable, more reliable than the newer electronic control boards. Those older controls were more easily diagnosed and repaired. However, these new control boards offer better control with variable response, and can be paired with thermostats that many offer different heat/cool levels at differing time periods during the day. Codes in my area require a dedicated 20 amp circuit to serve the new high efficiency furnaces. My old furnace got along fine on a 15 amp circuit that was shared with a couple of lights. If you do not have the space or capacity for another circuit in your service entrance box, there will be an added cost for adding a furnace circuit. If you have the capacity in your box, a dedicated circuit may yet be required, but, is a simple addition....See More- 3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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seagrass_gw Cape CodOriginal Author