Lining fabric pots to keep soil from drying out?
central_valley
2 months ago
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daninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoRelated Discussions
palm tree seedlings - let soil dry out or keep it moist?
Comments (2)Hi Squidy. Too bad you don't know the type of palm. There are desert and tropical palms. Many have swollen trunks. Is the pot in or surrounded with plastic and is seed/seedling container on a heating pad? Since you've been successful germinating, it'd probably be best watering like you've been...the soil shouldn't be soggy or completely dry out. Keep moderately moist. Well-draining, but not to the point soil dries right after watering. It's not a good idea allowing water to settle in the saucer for prolonged periods either. Discard, 15 minutes or so if excess water drips in the saucer. If your seeds are on a heating pad, soil will dry faster. A pro using heat is speedier germination. If inside/under plastic, slit for ventilation. When seedlings have 3-5 leaves, remove the plastic. Do you remember anything about the mother palm other than height? For example, were leaves firm or soft/flexible? Long or short? Distinguishable shapes? Well, congrats, squidy...Toni...See MoreHow to keep bareroots from drying out
Comments (12)The rule of reason applies to these things. Mounding bareroots isn't holy writ. In general, the later in the season your bareroot arrives, the greater the necessity to mound. The reason is that you are starting with a more dried out rose to begin with. These plants were dug up in October and have been in (more or less cold) storage ever since. So adjust the advice to mound to your climate and timing. For example, if I manage to get bareroots in January, when we have short days and lots of rain, I don't mound at all. If I get them in late February or later, I always mound with compost or compost mixed with soil because March is always windy. Wind without rain will kill a bareroot within a couple of days. If your climate provides you with ample spring rainfall and humidity and little wind, mounding may be unnecessary. If your climate is already hot and/or dry, by all means, mound with soil, which retains water better than compost....See MoreChristmas Cactus Soil Won't Dry Out!
Comments (5)Hi Mithander, Sorry, there's so much going on w/ this plant. Fungus gnats are generally indicators of too much watering. These plants are jungle cacti, not arid cacti, so they do need water w/ reasonable frequency & are designed to tolerate the extreme heat of the tropics. (They originally hail from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil which is where I grew up, so I know they have rainy season in January & that it gets VERY hot.) But that said, they need fast draining mix 'cause their roots can rot quite easily. Yes, flowering is a lot of work for the plant, but generally one withholds water for one month after flowering & then the plant slowly starts to come back. Usually mine start putting on new growth again in March or April & I resume a regular watering schedule. Maybe the soil you used had wetting agents in it? If you still have the package maybe read the list of ingredients. At any rate, soil that's too wet & then a a plant moved to a pot that's too big combine to make for conditions for rot. Also putting it into a cooler room combined w/ damp soil can also lead to serious rot & root rot (that's why you have fewer roots). These plants normally grow up in the crotches of trees w/very little mix & just whatever leaf debris & animal wastes happen to drop on them. Their natural habitat gets lots of rain, sometimes frequent rain (depending on the season). Sorry, but if a plant stays too wet, the last thing to do is water it more. Does the pot still have drainage holes? 'cause this is in part a bad drainage problem. I'd put it back into the smaller pot, into a mix of 1/2 African violet soil & half perlite or pumice. I'd smell the roots for rot & then sprinkle ordinary cinnamon (like you use for baking, actual to prevent rot) on the roots & then shake them off & pot up as above. I'd put the newly repotted plant into a position of bright, indirect light & then please leave the plant alone. These plants thrive w/ benign neglect & when healthy, a bit of fertilizer. They tend not to do well when fussed over. I realize you're trying to help the plant, but you're killing it w/ kindness & not resolving the basic problem which sounds to be bad mix, compounded by too much water & then maybe also cold, air conditioned air. While you wait for it to recover you can check out your other cuttings which you mentioned are growing well & also read lots of Christmas Cactus posts here at C&S. Good luck!...See Moresoil not drying out!!
Comments (7)Yes, there is quite a difference between Dracaenas and Gasterias! As soon as I saw your response, I did a Yahoo! Advanced Search for "Gasteria lilliputiana," and it returned exactly three sites, one of which is this GardenWeb page. At the bottom of the page was a link labeled "Did you mean to search for Gasteria liliputana?" I clicked on that and got a list of over 270 sites, so I believe the correct spelling would be "Gasteria liliputana." Anyway, I included a link to one of the sites that has a good photo of a blooming G. liliputana. I also checked out Botany.com's page for Gasteria, and here are some excerpts from the page: "Thay make wonderful houseplants because they will tolerate low levels of light as well as hot, bright indirect light.... In warm climates where the temperature stays above 40 degrees F, these plants can be grown outdoors; otherwise, they can be grown in a home or greenhouse. A mixture of two parts loam and equal parts of sand and crushed bricks is the best to use.... Keep the soil moist throughout the summer, but only give water when the soil becomes quite dry in winter. No shading is required except a little during summer when the sun's rays are the most severe." Here is a link that might be useful: G. liliputana in bloom...See Morecentral_valley
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)