My approach is to plan as much as is possible the path in which the cable will be run before cutting any holes. A D'versibit might work well to drill a hole from your planned box location to the basement. Planning would include looking at the situation in the attic and locating the place in the basement overhead that is directly under the planned box location. The absence of such concepts suggests that this job should be contracted to a professional. Here is a link that might be useful: D'versibit

oldsparky508 - Thank you for your comments. However, I think you may have missed some of my comments because I know I've written a lot. I cannot work in the ceiling because I have no access to the ceiling. We have a flat roof (no attic) on our house with tong and groove wood planks which are 4" thick (1960 wood ceiling) suspended by 4x10" beams. The external wall of the house is concrete block and one of these beams rest on top of the block giving no access to the wiring. Also, I live in Phoenix, AZ and we do not have a basement. I have a 20 AMP breaker with 12 AWG wiring with only 6 outlets on the circuit right now. So I have no concerns about overloading the circuit. The lighting that I purchased is Tech Lighting-Accent Cable Kit 5 Head-800CBL5PN . This lighting matches what we installed on the other side of the room already where there was an internal wall from which power was available. However, it is not possible to pull wire from that area over to the other side of the house without a major deconstruction effort. Therefore, the only option is on the concrete block wall of the house to pull the power. where I want to put up the lighting The halogen bulbs have a max rating of 20W and there are 5 bulbs for a total of 100W. So this will not add much of a draw on the circuit and I don't have to worry about trying to drill into the 1960 tongue and groove ceiling which has very minimal space between it and the trusses for the flat roof. I've attached a picture below. The right hand side is where I want to install the cable lighting, so that it lights up the artwork on the wall above the buffet hutch. Also, I want to install an outlet along the top of the buffet hutch on the right hand side, so that I don't have to run an extension cord to get power on the counter top. The outlet I want to use is on the left hand side of the door where the stand alone lamp (which is no longer there), is plugged into. My plan is to put the switch on the wall next to the entry way because it has more space between the concrete and drywall. I hope this makes it clearer.

Brad covered this well. I had a single duplex outlet installed above all of my fireplaces, as well as 1x coax and 1x cat6 in the another duplex box. True I don't want a TV in every single room over every fireplace, but I wanted the option to. A picture or a mirror over the fireplace covers these. Something Brad posted (and most people miss) is the studs which a TV mount bolts in to. Most TV mounts are 16" wide, but you want the mount centered. If you have a telescoping arm on the mount, they almost never sit centered and are offset. This is why what Brad did is great, as it lets you put the mount wherever it needs to go without modifying anything. True they make very good toggle bolts that just grip the sheetrock, buy why not use wood studs if you can? Also, take good photos of every single one so you know what you working with once everything is done I also ran extra conduit (smurf tube, flexible pvc, etc) from each of these to my unfinished basement. IMO all of my "over the fireplace TV's" will never have any boxes connected to them, but ya never know. You can also transfer HDMI signal over cat6 if you really need to (say for security cameras, not a 4k movie...) so some people run 2x cat6 cables everywhere just to future proof. I didn't Plan an "IT rack" space somewhere in your house. Most use an unfinished basement room, the cabinets can be locked etc so that part is up to you. Yes everything is wifi today, but hardwired is always better and more reliable. Depending on the size of your house, most will do a WAP (wireless access point) system instead of a single bulky wifi router that sits on your basement IT rack or another bad spot. Planning a WAP puts your wifi router in the best possible location in your house, or you could do 2 or 3 WAPs to make sure there's no dead zones etc. Anyway, these need cat6 ran (from your rack) to their location (and sometimes 110v outlet so plan hardware now). Same with security cameras. If you want them or to wire for them, that all needs to feed to your IT box Put your IT box on its own circuit. It might not pull a ton of power on it's own, but you don't want a vacuum cleaner tripping a breaker on accident and killing your data signal for the entire house.

Thank you @w0lley32! I tested the wire bundles with a contactless voltage tester today. Here are the results: Nut 1 (black - 3 black wires, 1 white wire): high reading, regardless of whether switch is off Nut 2 (red - 3 white wires): zero reading, regardless of whether switch is off Nut 3 (red - 1 black wire): high reading when switch is in on position; low reading/beeping when switch is in off position Does that information confirm or modify anything you suggested above?