Thanks, I have a "killawatt" meter that measures all important electrical data: volts, amps, watts, volt-amps, power factor, kwh, and time. The point of my post was I understand the simple act of converting water vapor into liquid water releases the heat held in the vapor, i.e., the heat of condensation... a heat gain. The reverse, evaporation takes heat out of the system as it energizes the water to turn it into vapor. So, my conclusion is the dehumidifier is a better heater (not its intended use) than a resistive heating element. On the other "bad news" I believe an air conditioner that vents its heat outside still loses cooling due to the fact that the water condensed by the cooling coils liberates the heat of condensation and thereby reduces the amount of cooling delivered to the inside. The question has been on my mind for some time. I looked at an article on: http://www.udarrell.com/latent_heat_condesaton.html and was using that information to calculate the "extra" heat my dehumidifier is supplying to my basement. In the summer I don't want the heat, but I do want to get rid of the moisture. As a foot note I add the 70 pint dehumidifier was purchased a few weeks back to displace a 24 pint (or thereabouts) dehumidifier, not so much to get more capacity, but to get lower cost. The cost of water removal with the 70 pint unit is less than 1/2 the cost (electric power cost) of the small unit, i.e., the big unit is both more "powerful" and more efficient. I suppose due in part to a more efficient compressor.

Funny, most vegans I meet are secretive and don't like talking about it. Probably result of shocked reactions (guilty as charged) and related bullying. I can see why a financial analyst might try to use NPV for this but it adds assumptions other than regular investor meeting or beating market. Comparing a tankless gas heater to a large tank heat pump water heater with different fuels and performance details is not that simple. Who cares about negative NPV with tankless lag and cold water sandwiches or HPWH making an important area less comfortable. Is positive NPV more important than possibly poisoning your family with cheap gas tank combustion exhaust? Sure money is more valuable in the future including appliance cost and replacement labor. Hassle of emergency replacement is part of reason cheapo heaters exist. Better planning includes durability, especially when health is at risk. A 6 year life for a gas tank is more unsafe than 6 year life for electric tank. I'm guessing Bry's bean counting didn't include infrastructure or monthly utility fees either. I've heard some gas fees are as high as $30 a month/$360 per year even with no gas usage. Some have low infrastructure costs, but it's not uncommon for deeply buried gas supply lines, trenching and backfill to run in the thousands for our area, mainly for challenging lots. Our HVAC contractor charges a per appliance drop charge fee for gas supply pipe in the house, roughly half the cost of the cheapest water heater. Don't forget venting! It's not just about energy efficiency, paybacks and investment. This decision involves health and life-safety. Bry's water heaters and wonderdog's most economical suggestion are atmospherically vented gas heaters. These are dangerous appliances because they backdraft combustion exhaust regularly: Picture from above link 3 problems with atmospherically vented appliances. They are most dangerous inside a home. Garage installations are certainly more acceptable but they are still unsafe. Most attached garage-to-home interfaces are not airtight. Prevailing wind, stack effect, bath fans, dryers and most notably kitchen vent hoods suck garage air into the home. Having an open flame pilot light, inside the garage which is sometimes exposed to flammable fumes is not safe either. I have a friend that was tragically effected by this exact situation. If the garage is well ventilated to the outdoors, has no living space above, does not face prevailing winds has an airtight connection to house and is not exposed to flammable liquids or fumes that makes them more acceptable but all of that is such a stretch it's safer to say never. In case others like wonderjack have missed it, my next recommendation after a HPWH is a big, electric-resistance tank (or two smaller ones) which can be very affordable and high performance. Using electric tanks with switches, timers, Time-of-Use metering or Automated Demand Response are ways to use energy more appropriately while increasing the safety of a home. I realize good situations for gas exist but for the most part, it's not the cheapest way to heat anymore. It doesn't make sense for most new, code-built homes or those considering upgrading infrastructure for existing appliance replacement.

Although I have had a vent fan most of my adult life, I have never gotten used to turning it on during a shower. In many of my bathrooms, that would have been a drafty proposition, so turning it on after the shower was preferred. That, however, means that the condensation has already occurred. Finally having a new window, so that cold air does not infiltrate from outside, and a fan silent enough to hear the radio over its noise has been great. But I still find that I forget to turn it on. So for me, I have one that turns on with motion and with humidity. We keep the door to the room closed so that it does not turn on from movement in the hall. Joe Macker, I have something that fixes the smell problem almost entirely, so that the person making the smell does not even have to smell it. The Toto bidet seat with a charcoal filter (I have the next-to top-of-the-line model) does the trick quite nicely. It also does wash and dry and can also provide a heated seat.

What causes excessive condensation in your air conditioning? https://www.heating-air-conditioning.org/ So what exactly is causing this excessive condensation in your air conditioning system in the first place? There are a number of factors that could help explain this phenomenon. For starters, this excess condensation could be due to bacteria found in your air conditioner that is creating a clog inside the drain. This clog causes the condensation pan to overfill, and leak water. Another contributor to this excess condensation could be the condensation pan itself, which perhaps is rusted or damaged and is causing water leaks in your homes. Another cause of excessive condensation in your air conditioning system could be a dirty air filter. This is why regular AC maintenance and air duct cleaning is so important. Your AC's dirty air filters could be blocking the airflow over your system's evaporator coil. This causes the coil to freeze, and when it melts, it could be dripping water into the evaporation pan, leading to water leaks.