If you had only 2 USB ports, was your other Keyboard plugged into one, or do you have 2USB's and 2 PS2's for hook ups? If you only have 2 USB's and no PS2's then by all means pick a USB HUB and that will add the extra ports that you need. To find a USB 2.0 hub with A/C plugin they might have them at Office Max and Staples and all over, probably even Target. I assumed that when you stated the new keyboard had a USB connection and both were in use...that therefore the older keyboard was connected by a PS2 connection (because if the older keyboard had been disconnected from one of the two USB ports... one would be available). Or did I presume too much...again? Below is a nice example of an electrical plugin/usb plug in at Amazon. Although I can't figure out what those four pegs stuck on top of the box are supposed to be on the picture from a owner. Some hubs just plug into your computer and thereby draw extra electrical energy through it. The better ones plug into your computer but come also with an A/C plug to get the energy needed to run out of a wall socket, instead of drawing the extra through your computer. Just as TomH had suggested. The boys from along time ago made the same suggestion to me with my notebook and they are right. Its looks like Bob14 found your two hidden USB ports! None-the less you will probably want a hub sooner or later anyway. Between speakers, mice, keyboards, printers, external hard drives...and OHYEAH Game Pads!...they fill up fairly quickly. Bob14 a nice guy. He's fun too. marf Here is a link that might be useful: D Link AC plugged 2.0 USB Hub

Klaa, Sorry I missed that post but have since read it. In the power schemes tab, Energy star is the one selected in the drop down menus the choices are: Home/Office Desk, Portable Laptop, Presentation, Always On, Minimize Power Manager and Max Battery. Which would you suggest I choose? Also Turn on hard disk is set at Never Turn off moniter is set at never System Stanby was set at after 15 mins, but I changed to never at your suggestion also System Hibernation is set at never. The only thing red x out in device manager is something called Wan Network Driver under Network Adapter. Waiting for your kind suggestions. Thank you. Sapphires

Tapla - first, thanks for all of the helpful posts on container plants. I'm taking the time to write this as an extended "thank you" for all of the help you've given me over the past month (unbeknownst to you) since I started looking at what to do with a henry lauder walking stick tree I inherited at my new home. Sorry if this reply is too late, just noticed it while looking for more helpful threads from you. Short version: I'd recommend taking a look at the Corsair Strife with Cherry MX Silent keys for about $90, if you like the feel of mechanical keys. If that's over budget or if those are too loud, look at an inexpensive gaming keyboard from someone like Logitech, Corsair, Cooler Master, and Razer - only because that's where you'll find backlit full-sized keys. I have the CM Storm and that's okay for now, backlight generally works (except with ChromeOS) but I'd try something different. If you want backlit chiclet keyboards, I think Kensington still has a backlit scissor-type version on their SlimType line. Amazon basics is $12 (no backlight) and works with linux. For mice, if you're not gaming and don't care about whether it lights up, it's hard to go wrong with Logitech. For a no frills wired option, look at the M500. Long version: I'm a software geek by trade and I type quite a bit, both for work and after work. I work solely on linux and chromeOS machines, although I'll troubleshoot a windows or apple when I need to. I also have had access to a lot of computer equipment over the past 20 years. Since you're running linux, you'll likely get little use out of the additional gaming features that keyboards have (i.e. windows software that control macros). Backlit keys and mice may have a dimming button or specialized LED pattern that might or might not work on linux, or might not work if you're connecting through a USB hub. Sometimes the more inexpensive gaming keyboards with lots of features suffer the most from these compatibility issues -- doesn't mean you shouldn't try, just realize it may not work without some trial and error or modification. A notable exception is Razer, which seems to have an open source project for gaming drivers for linux (unsure if they contribute to the project, I just see one exists). You didn't mention whether you liked the more traditional/mechanical keyboard (think old IBM-style) or chiclet keys (what you'd see on a macbook). I'd make that decision first. The device that allows the key to be pressed and move up and down is called the switch. There are really three categories of key switches, with variation within each category: mechanical, membrane, and scissor. This article talks about the more popular mechanical switches but with blurbs about membrane and scissor switches. The switches: - Membrane are the cheapest switches, where there's a rubber dome under the key which is used as a spring. When the key bottoms out, it's pressed and that key is "on". When the dome pops up, that key is "off". There's two main types here, where they'll either look like a mechanical key with a long key travel, or on the other end of the spectrum like a chiclet with almost no travel. There's minimal longevity - the rubber wears out and there's no individual key replacement. For that reason, there's less data on this type, as opposed to the mechanical keyboard worship sites. But you can find keyboards with these switches for a lot less than the rest. There's various quality here, from the under $10 OEM keyboard to the lower-end of the gaming spectrum $25-75. The low end price point of the popular keyboard manufacturers tend to use these -- look at Logitech, Corsair, Cooler Master, and Razer. - Scissor switches are typically used for laptops, with a plastic hinge that bottoms out with the keypress. I've seen them in some chiclet desktop keyboards as well. The benefit is they allow for slimmer keys (useful in laptops). The negative to most people is that they have less key travel, which can trigger repetitive strain injuries, depending on the amount of typing. - Mechanical switches are the most expensive and reliable, with a couple of notable brands that sell their switches to the majority of the keyboard manufacturers. Cherry and Kaihua are the big two manufacturers of switches. These switches give the most feedback. Different versions can give various levels of force needed to press each key (actuation force), various levels of key travel (how far you press, called actuation difference and reset point), and bumps or bumpless key travel (linear, tactile, etc.). The wirecutter has an article explaining in detail, and they also give recommendations on keyboards. These keyboards are generally at $75 and up Do you think of a keyboard as disposable and lasts only as long as your computer? Or do you want a keyboard that will last quite a bit longer? Most people upgrade there computers every 5 years, most software companies target 2-3 years for a refresh. A good keyboard can last a lot longer than that. Summary: If you want a chiclet keyboard, you're deciding between membrane or scissor, and if you want full-sized keys and larger travel, you're deciding between mechanical or membrane. For chiclet, I think you're going to have a hard time finding scissor switches (apple?) and that used to have linux compatibility issues, although there's a big fanbase there. Full sized keys, you have an overwhelming set of choices to make between switches if you can't just type on one at a store. What I like: I find mechanical keyboards much more comfortable to type on for a while, but also use a membrane keyboard at home where noise is more of a concern. I don't care as much about the brand of keyboard as I do the switches. At work, where I type the most, I use a keyboard with Cherry MX Brown. Those used to be the most silent mechanical switch out there and has a good "familiar" feel for me. A main competitor to that is the Razer Orange. But neither are quiet -- I still think it's way too loud for a bedroom, for example. I don't know that truly silent keys exist. For really quiet keys, you're probably looking at membrane switches, with two exceptions worth investigating: - There's a newer release from Cherry called Cherry MX Silent. This article says it can be found in other keyboards, although a search on amazon only links to the Corsair Strife, which would be one I would try if that's within your budget - it's backlit, from a reputable manufacturer, with a reputable key switch. I haven't tried it myself, but will likely buy one in the future. - The wirecutter article I referenced above recommends using damping o-rings on any cherry MX key to make it more silent. I haven't tried this either, but videos on youtube don't show that they're much more quiet. I've used Keytronic keyboards with linux machines quite a bit - but the membrane rubber dome kind. They were the freebies we used to get with our work machines that died within a year or two. Fine, but nothing special. They were definitely clicky, not even close to quiet. Haven't looked into whether they have backlit versions or a more silent type. I have a CM Storm at home, that's relatively quiet, at least compared to the cherry Brown. That backlight works with linux, not with some USB hubs, and not with a chromebook. YMMV. As far as mice, I have an old weighted Logitech mouse that looked a lot like the M500 but you could change the feel (I liked it heavier) - and the model number has long rubbed off. I have the M500 too and have no issues. If you care about specialized mouse software, you'll have the same issues with mice as you do keyboards with regards to linux support. For instance, the Logitech Setpoint software still doesn't have a linux version. For button remapping, use something natively built for your desktop environment, if you care; I don't. My recommendation: - if you want to keep it for a long time, go mechanical: $90+: try the Corsair Strife with Cherry MX Silent - or, go membrane full-size: $25-50: One of the lower-end gaming keyboards from Logitech, Corsair, Cooler Master, or Razer - chiclet: $15 amazon basics (membrane) or $30 kensington (scissor) Finally - I didn't mention ergo keyboards, key placement, or DIY customization. Some people really have a strong opinions on whether their enter key isn't L-shaped, the size of their Ctrl key, and whether there is a windows logo or not, nevermind changing the letters to Dvorak, Colemak, or any other alternative layouts. If you care about any of those things, you're definitely looking at full-sized keys and you're probably in the mechanical keyboard camp to find the right configuration. Good luck, and feel free to private message me for more questions.

Thanks for the further keyboard suggestions. An embarrassment of riches. :-D Snidely, the person who built my most recent computer is an IT guy and president of his own small company. He frequently does work for major companies around where I live (Allentown area) and has gone as far as NYC to so work, so he is a very trusted 'geek.' He first built a computer for me in the early 2000s, so when I needed a new one a few years ago I thought of going nowhere else. :-) But if I ever find that he's not available anymore (for building a computer or repairing the one he made for me), I'll just shop for one of the regular brands as you suggest without looking for another home-made one. Thanks again to all for all your feedback!