No I haven't, you mean just changing the soil that it's in? How would I go about doing that without damaging it and/or the roots further, and can you explain why that might help? Thanks!

I grow blueberries in a container for past 6-7 years and for the past few years, noticed that the problems are growing. Initially, only applying an acidic fertilizer did the trick; then I started applying an acidifier to the plants and last couple of years none restored them. Finally I have figured that I needed to also apply iron supplement to my plants. They did not really look like they'd have chlorosis. Secondly, I have baby blueberries growing in a container in addition to mature plants. When I forgot to water them during heat of summer, they came down with burnt leaf appearance overnight. I did water them but this seemed to have caused a trauma and till I applied iron supplement and fertilizer I did not see any active growth. Only time will tell if it is correct strategy; but for now, about 2 months after taking the steps described above, my plants look healthier than they have looked in a long long time. Overall, my experience with ALL my containerized plants, that were being consistently fertilized, has been that somehow they become iron deficient. Not all show obvious signs of chlorosis, but you will notice stunted growth. One word of caution : I have been using iron at half the recommended strength, and only a small amount to begin with until I see the plant respond favorably, and then I will go second round and apply the proper dosage. Hope this helps!

You should post this in the Growing Tomato forum but without the 'e' in tomato.

Hard to get a decent shot but hopefully this helps. I have two separate setups in the photo. The 11 gal rubbermaid tub on top holds the nutrients for the 3 gal lettuce tubs in the upper grow area. Gravity feeds it through 1/4 in black tubing. I have a valve inline with each tub to shut off feed when I am filling nutrients. The 18 gal tomato nutrient tub also connects through 1/4 in line to ll gal tomato tub recessed in floor of grow area. So all gravity feed, no fluid or air pumps. Needless to say a lot of my setup is based on working with a very small grow area. It sits in my unheated basement so is sealed up and heated in the winter. Basic idea is minimum nutrients in the valuable space of the grow area, reservoirs outside the space. I just harvested all the lettuce again today - hard to see i know- and this makes 6 weeks of harvesting once a week, and 10 weeks since I planted seeds. Just refilled the 11 gal lettuce reservoir today for the first time in the 10 weeks. The 18 gallon tomato reservoir is still about 1/3 full after 10 weeks and my first tomatoes are just starting to turn color. So all in all, pretty easy stuff! Setup: I preset the adjustable float valve in grow tub to maintain fluid 1.5" below the net cups. Then I fill the grow tub so nutrients touch the bottom of the net cups. Basic idea is level drops slowly at first as seedling takes in nutrients and float valve only opens once level gets to the 1.5" setting where it is maintained as long as there are nutrients in the reservoir tank. Working well so far, roots very healthy- much better than when I refilled manually and levels went up and down. Float valve between the roots: Float valve going through tub wall to 1/4" tube and shutoff valve on way to nutrient reservoir. The parts: http://www.amazon.com/Rykey-Straight-Connect-Fitting-System/dp/B018W0IB8C?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 http://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA252-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAX4W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00 http://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-Polyethylene-Drinking-Aquarium/dp/B00KYL1PD6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 http://www.amazon.com/Fittings-Bulkhead-Connector-connect-Filter/dp/B00YGR2ILM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 Hope it helps someone!