Drainage Disaster on New Build
Cindy Everett
3 months ago
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building a raised flower bed in response to poor drainage
Comments (18)Gravel or coarse sand added to an entire planting area can help to improve drainage because it introduces spaces in between the soil particles for water to penetrate, but it takes quite a lot to have much of an effect. And it needs to be fully incorporated into the soil to a significant depth, not applied as a layer. The accepted horticultural convention is that organic matter (i.e. compost) is preferred for this purpose, as its decomposition over time improves soil fertility and structure in addition to increasing the pore space. The incorporation of the gravel or compost into the entire planting area is the same theory behind not amending individual planting holes - amending creates situations of different soil structure adjacent to each other - this impedes root development as well as water penetration. It's called soil interface issues and if your "landscaper" is self-taught or long out of school, he may not be familiar with the both the theory and the current practices. Establishing a border of drain rock at the front base of the wall where it meets the lawn (or whatever) should help to reduce the wading pool effect. It is a pretty common application here with heavy, poorly draining NW soils and if deep and wide enough, relatively effective. It can even have the appearance of a dry stream bed (or mostly dry) and become part of the garden aesthetic as well as being a highly functional application....See MoreDFW area - New home, lawn is a disaster, seeking advice
Comments (12)Thank you all for the responses. texas-weed, I have not taken any offense to your comments, and will continue to welcome any feedback. Yours is especially helpful because of your expertise with this area. Would you be able to speak to the success rate of Zoysia in this area? I've some some really deep emerald grasses in the shopping centers that look absolutely beautiful. I've been told that this is Zoysia. All of the trees have some degree of issue with surface roots. I have three trees, however, each one is about 75 ft from the other. I'm posting a link to some other shots to give you an idea of the canopy. You can see that I have been attempting to raise the canopy and thin the tree to allow for more sun. It seems that the builder didn't put a lot of through into planning this yard, because I have giant Crape Myrtles growing right under the eaves, and a Live Oak no more than 12-14ft from my house. I am not a fan of St. Augustine, and I would like to avoid it if at all possible. The neighbor has it, and the other half of my lawn that is divided by the cement walkway is thoroughly St. Augustine. At some point I had hoped to install a french drain for drainage and form a physical barrier to re-establish the Bermuda on that side. This feels more and more unlikely by the day. I do have issues with erosion, and I also have trouble setting the mower low enough (though I can mow at the second to lowest setting if I'm VERY careful) because of the exposed roots. I would like to level the lawn somehow, or build it up and regrade it, but I have no idea where to even begin attempting this. I'm concerned that the lawn will be much higher than the sidewalk. Thank you for the information about Common Bermuda, I'll check out the Tiffway 419 to see if that hybrid resembles my lawn. You may have noticed that the grass was pretty high in my previous photos, and that is because I was working long hours. I'm currently working on cutting it back down to the second setting on my mower. Here is a link to the gallery showing the tree: http://img695.imageshack.us/g/img1290i.jpg/ Please disregard the butchered Crape Myrtles if they are apparent, the previous owner was very hands off with this yard and the gentleman performing the lawn services apparently subscribes to the popular belief about cutting them back in the winter. Again, all feedback is much appreciated....See MoreTile disaster in new build
Comments (13)Your choice of flooring was wonderful. I would absoulutely have the builder arrang AND PAY FOR the corrective action of sand/polish if that will correct the problems. We are almost done with our new build and the builder fired the tile guy after he laid the entire bath floor & 1/2 of the 11ft shower due to poor install. She also made him remove the shotty work & tile guy will have to buy tile replacements. Hope your builder does the right thing!...See MoreMy new kitchen is a disaster! Please advise!
Comments (45)Thanks for asking doraville! My painter tried another light tan. It was awful but I let him take his turn. For my turn, I chose SW Dried Thyme.....perfecto! If it didn't work, I was going to go through with a professional consultation...... It's a dark-ish green (thanks alabamanicole!), slightly on the cool side, I'd call it a fresh tone. Not warm, not really a cool either IMO. So, the green will go in the kitchen and breakfast nook. The kitchen is separated from the main part of the house by 2 doorways and a big pass-thru. I'm going to get an almost match off-white for the trim in the kitchen and breakfast nook so I don't have any bright white near my cabinets. I'm feeling good about it again. My backsplash material was brought in today and now I'm back to being terrified of tile. What if it looks terrible, ugly, weird? etc. If I could rewind, I'd consult a KD for sure............. If it weren't for this forum and the bath forum, I'd be institutionalized by now! lol....See MoreCindy Everett
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