N. Texas west facing facade black paint color
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West Texas bermudagrass lawn needs help!
Comments (64)I'm going to go ahead and resurrect this old post so hopefully someone can learn and hear from a different perspective from a professional. I would first like to mention, TexasWeed, I know who you are, I've read many of your post, and you have some knowledge. With all due respect, I respectively disagree with you in many aspects though. One of the paint points I disagree with you on, is you suggesting a SLOW RELEASE FERTILIZER in the original posters situation. While slow release fertilizers can be great in many areas, and especially in particular times of the year. This was not a great suggestion for the poster in my honest and fair opinion. Why? The poster is growing a lawn on sand. We know what that means. Lower CEC levels, and little nutrient holding power. Nutrients will never last as long in Sand. The same PPSCU, XCU, and Sulfur coated fertilizers that may claim 2-3 months, is not near the case for turf growing on Sand. Even for lawns growing on Clay such as myself here in Central Texas, many people fail to understand how "Slow Release" products work. Knowing the growth characteristics will put you far ahead of the game. Many PPSCU and various other slow release products contain coatings which are dependent on various factors. If you study these factors, most of these coatings are designed to be broken down with the main factor being "TEMPERATURE." Slow to release nutrients when cool, and they literally dump nutrients when soil temperatures are very warm. In Texas, this is the majority of the time, so what you get left with, is an over-priced bag of "Slow Release" that's dumping much quicker then "SLOW" due to high temperatures being exhibited. My approach, especially on dealing with "SAND" such as the poster is SPOON FEEDING quick release fertilizers. Bermuda especially, needs to be supplied adequate nitrogen for outstanding turf quality, density, and color. The goal is to feed the turf what it needs as it uses it. By doing so, the turf will continue to be fed, and the sandy soils that don't hold nutrients will continue to be ideal for the turf. The original poster had great improvements from doing 1/2 applications from Ammonia Sulfate every few weeks and this supports exactly what I'm saying. However, to the original poster, you are forgetting many important nutrients. A soil test will be MANDATORY for the perfect lawn. Without a soil test, I can't recommend phosphorus, I see enough of it around my parts of Texas. The problem is much of the phosphorus isn't available. Same with Potassium, except I consider this CRUCIAL. Your lawn needs potassium to aid in extreme temperatures and disease pressure such as what we have here in Texas. Potassium is a luxury consumption nutrient, meaning you put it down, the turf is going to use it, if in available form. Much of our potassium in our soils is NOT AVAILABLE when comparing from my recent soil test, to actual TISSUE TEST. Also, using 21-0-0 provides lots of Sulfur that will aid in bringing Texas's natural high pH down and will also aid in uptake up other nutrients, including our long lost Iron. If you've ever applied Iron in Texas, you'll notice, there might or might not be a response, if you get a response, it doesn't last. This is pH related and calls for using only CHLEATED IRON products which is much more usable and available to the turf in our area. If you want a usable mix, trust my word on this, try it, and come back to me and tell me you have the best lawn in the neighborhood after half a growing season. (You might have to source these products), but they are all available in Texas. Depending on your work schedule and free time you can adjust your rates and applications, but you need to apply in adequate water to avoid burn potential. Most likely, you will have to go with the lower spray rates and more often unless you have a high volume sprayer like we use that holds hundreds of gallons. Bermuda: Weekly Fertilizer Mix: .25N per 1,000 Sq. Feet (From Ammonia Sulfate 21-0-0) .25 (SOP) per 1,000 Sq. Feet (Potassium Sulfate) .50 ounces per 1,000 Sq. Feet (Micro nutrients with chleated Iron and mg and mn. The micro nutrient product is really important and will aid in giving your turf the color you are looking for. I (HIGHLY) suggest either using (FeATURE 6-0-0) by loveland products or Main Event Chleated Micro nutrients If you don't have the time to spoon feed your lawn weekly, you can adjust the rates, either double for bi-weekly, or multiply x 4 for monthly. Don't go longer then month long applications. The only catch is, 21-0-0 has burn potential. You will need at (MINIMUM) of 1 gallon of water per 8 ounces of 21-0-0 in your mix to avoid burn potential. Do not adjust the rates above, this mix is tried and true on Texas Turf and will leave you with the greenest lawn in the neighborhood. If you don't have a large enough sprayer with capability of putting out enough water volume, you're better sticking with granular fertilizers. We use 200+ gallon tanks, with walking booms for an even application. Nozzles on the sprayer are also important. We use TeeJet Air Induction and FloodJet tips to reduce drift, depending on the water needed for the application....See MoreWest TN swap
Comments (87)Is there a list where I can sign up to make sure I'm notified of the fall plant swap? I moved out between Mason and Covington 5 years ago and have about 2 acres in which to play with plants but possess a very meager budget. I have plenty of plants to divide, some that were from my maternal grandmother's yard and I've drug starts with me every where I've roamed. We also expanded our vegetable garden to 30'x30' in hopes I might actually get enough to can this year. I put up 6 jars of the most expensive, but tasty, cans of spaghetti sauce ever last year. I'm learning a lot by trail, error, and sheer will power so any interaction with information and advice is welcome. Lori aka Weed_in_Bloom...See MoreWhat colors to avoid in North facing rooms?
Comments (37)But, what are some examples of "clear" neutral colors that might also have some depth? I need serious help on this, PLEASE!!! Our LR is the one I need to choose a paint color for very soon - before year end. I had chosen Blonde, but then I saw yellow might not go well with the beige and brown brick fireplace. Not sure Blonde is considered clear or muddy. I have blue and taupe furniture, a medium brown wood tone floor (no gold or red) and a red and blue darkish rug. We cannot afford new furniture and the floor was just stained and finished. Came out a bit darker than I wanted. Since I haven't picked up the rug yet I might be able to switch it out for something lighter in color. So, the rug and the walls are the only things I can change to brighten things up. I'm going SW Creamy for all my trim as I think almost anything goes with it. Chose Diverse Beige for the bedrooms. Would that one turn "muddy" in a northern room?...See MoreWhat color should I paint my home exterior?
Comments (23)Kiimela, it just depends on how white you want the white. Alabaster and greek villa are warmer whites that lean a little yellow. make sure to get some samples and bring them home. I did these three on my home, with the Swiss Coffee (Behr) on my stucco. See how dull the swiss coffee looks against a bright white? But,,, this is how bright the white turned out on the stucco! Also have a rental house w/Swiss Coffee and black trim. (Behr colors) It's a nice combo. consider getting a new front door though. if you must keep yours, paint the entire door and side lites black or red. I'd prob just go w/Pure White if you're picking SW colors, for your place. Paired here w/Hale Navy, both of those would look nice. Or do the charcoal. just do a dark color for the trim against the white...See MoreDebbie Downer
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