Home schooling, a good idea or a bad one? Who tends to do this?
3 years ago
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Bad ideas and good ideas in growing roses
Comments (19)I understand, Seil. More than 25 years ago, I would leave an overhead, oscillating sprinkler going over large areas of my Newhall garden, requesting the community gardening staff to turn them off when they left for the day, on triple digit days. The horse manure mulch disappeared quickly. The foliage was huge, plants even more so, and they flowered amazingly. Water was cheap and plentiful, so not an issue there and then. There were no disease or insect issues. The plants were fully clothed in very dense, durable foliage and there was no such thing as sun scald nor Flat Headed Apple Borers which became great issues once that type of watering had to be discontinued due to availability and cost. Black spot and mites were frequent issues with the own root plants we propagated as volunteers at The Huntington. I learned early when bringing home any new plant such as those to pull off all of the foliage before bringing it into the garden. I had an area in filtered sun under a tree where I kept a pile of horse manure. I'd clump the newly arrived own roots in their pots together, surround and fill between them with the manure, often inside them as mulch, then overhead water until new foliage began developing. No mites, no diseases and the plants exploded into growth quickly. A bit of hardening them off in larger cans and higher levels of heat and light and they were ready for planting once they'd filled the five gallon cans. Growing them up in larger cans also permitted me to move them around to see what position was best to their liking. It often made quite a difference. At the beach, I had a number of customers who regularly used my "proprietary blend" of Ultra Fine and Miracle Grow sprayed every two weeks except between the middle of July through the middle of October. In the Perma Fog, it prevented disease, eliminated the constant aphids and saw flies and kept really terrible things there, like one lady's beloved and hated Paul Neyron, viable. He caught her heart in books and she was determined to grow him. He languished until I suggested the Ultra Fine and MG foliar application. She had severe bronchitis, but made sure she brought me a bouquet of beautiful Paul Neyron from her bush! Used during the heat, that mixture did burn, but when there weren't heat and light intensities to contend with, it worked wonders. NO way I could have ever used it in any garden at home! I tried it once, learned my lesson the hard way right there and then! Anything presented as being even slightly phytotoxic WILL burn here. I am in total agreement with your walking the roses daily. I can't imagine having them unless I wanted to walk them every chance I got. Each has its own personality, likes, dislikes, needs and will quickly let you know if you don't provide them. It's the best way not only to head off problems early, but also to detect sports. They can happen so quickly right in front of you and seemingly behind your back. A big part of the serendipity for me! Kim...See MoreRadiant Heat as a retro-fit...good idea? Bad idea?
Comments (4)I'll answer the easy question first. No, newer electric baseboard heaters would not be more efficient than old ones. All electric heaters turn electric power into heat at a rate of 100 percent efficiency, so the only chance you have for heat loss is in ductwork (in the case of forced-air systems), but you don't have that with baseboard, so there's no efficiency benefit to new ones. But having said that, in California electric rates are high, so I doubt electric heat is all that inexpensive to run, on a cost per BTU basis, but, then again, the need for heat in the area you're talking about is not great, so you'd just need to look at some past electric bills to see how much they're spending on heat and whether there is much opportunity to save money. The choice of ceiling ducts is probably an installation issue, and in a retrofit like this ease of installation is a serious concern. Standard practice would say ceiling ducts are not as efficient for heat, but a lot of newer installations use them because heating systems have much more air moving through them than they did years ago, so the warm air coming out of the ceiling vents often reaches the floor and spreads out. I know of several houses with ceiling mounted supply vents, and I have not heard of any serious complaints with them. One nice thing is your furniture placement is easier without floor vents to worry about. Radiant heat is a nice system for comfort, but it's going to be costly to put in, and you still don't get air conditioning without a separate ducted cooling system. My suggestion would be a heat pump, unless electric rates there are so high that gas heat would be cheaper -- and they may be....See More24" sink cabinet - Good idea? Bad idea?
Comments (24)Lots of useful points here, thanks. After doing some measuring, we would up tentatively deciding that we'll put in a 36" sink cabinet. We'd have so little room in a 24" cab around a garbage disposal (assuming same model we have now, and assuming the drain is in the center) that we'd be hard pressed to store trash under the sink. So with a 24" cabinet, we'd probably wind up losing 15" somewhere else to making a dedicated trash pull out. Thus it's actually efficient to just go to the 36" sink base. (The 30" doesn't work as well as 24 and 36 sizes, for various reasons involving window placement and ikea sizing.) If we stay with this decision, it seems we'll have a lot of latitude in selecting a sink size / configuration. I'll almost certainly go ahead and move to a larger sink - the question will be whether to maximize the potential of the large cabinet or keep the sink scaled to down a bit since the kitchen is smallish and the window in front of which the sink will be set is just 30". With the current cabinet choices open to me, my main work areas in the kitchen will be 33" to the right of the sink cabinet base, and 54-61" on the left of it. Plus however much smaller the sink opening is than the 36" span of the base cabinet. A little more prep space is always a good thing, but so is making dirty mixing bowls disappear....See MoreSchool me on whole house dehumidification... good, bad and ugly ?
Comments (31)Here's the thing you have to remember about relative humidity: when you cool air, relative humidity goes up. Yeah, air conditioners reduce humidity, but they do it by dropping the air to below its dew point, at which time the humidity condenses out of the air and becomes that condensation that drains away. The air emerging from the vents on your a/c unit is darn close to 100 percent relative humidity for its temperature, maybe 55-60 F or whatever. The lowering of relative humidity comes as a result of this newly-cooled air mixing with warmer room air and having its temperature go up. The other way to dehumidify air is simply to heat it. That's why the relative humidity goes down in the afternoon and you see those 90 - 100 percent relative humidity readings early in the morning when the temperature is at the day's lowest. This is also why a dehumidifier first cools the air to below its dew point and then warms it back up by routing the air first through the evaporator then its condenser. If you only cool the air (and then throw the heat away outdoors, as an a/c unit does) you're only able to dehumidify to the extent that you can continue to cool the air. You take a cool damp basement that's only maybe in the mid-60s to 70 temperature-wise, start running an air conditioner there that's getting rid of heat, and pretty soon you can't remove anymore moisture because your air temperature is getting colder (naturally increasing the relative humidity). And, the air emerging from the a/c is now only a few degrees cooler than the air going in, so there isn't much moisture being removed there either. This same thing occurs if it's a damp day and you run a/c to dehumidify the house. Because you're only cooling the air, it can only be dehumidified to the extent that it, a) needs to be cooled, and b) can increase in temperature after emerging from the a/c system. The bottom line is that precise control of indoor relative humidity is hard with normal mechanical equipment that's available to consumers. But here are a few things to keep in mind: First, a dehumidifier is good only where you can use some heat. They're going to add to the air an amount of heat exactly equal to the power they use, so if you buy a 900-way dehumidifier it's going to add about 3,000 btu of heat to your space. Do you want that heat? If you're also running air conditioning probably not. In cool, weather, or in a place that's normally damp such as a basement, yes - the heat is wanted and it also helps dehumidify. Second, the best way to control humidity with air conditioning systems is with low-capacity equipment running a high percent of the time. You can do this with a variable-capacity compressor, or if you want to do it on the cheap you can supplement your central a/c with a 5,000 btu window unit running constantly. (Combined with raising the thermostat setting of the main system so the window unit does more of the cooling, especially at high-humidity, lower-temperature times such as nights and rainy days.) The key is, keep removing moisture while cooling less....See More- 3 years ago
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