The short description by cat mom is accurate. To generalize this: A series of rods sticking out of the wall go into holes perfectly aligned to receive them. 1./ Any metal rod sticking out of the wall, made any way. 2./ Any very well aligned hole in your chosen shelf material Here is an example from five years ago. Jackww had metal rods welded onto a flat bar. Then he bolted the flat bar into the wall. This is one way to get bolts into the wall studs. Probably he grooved out the backside of the shelf so that the flat bar would be hidden. His shelves were massively heavy oak used normally as countertop material. See http://www.ikeafans.com/galleries/index.php?n=803 and http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/yes-s-ikea/5498-masterpiece-abstrakt-white.html The strongest method is Metal rods. Other methods work too. They all involve attaching something to the wall which then gets covered by the shelf after the shelf gets slid over it or onto it. This is why most floating shelves are thick. In the Ikea web site and in Ikea stores, see Lack and Besta floating shelves. There are others too. Here is a link that might be useful: LACK floating shelf for $15 at Ikea

The most effective way to make floating shelves is to create a torsion box with a pocket in the back edge. A ledger strip is then attached solidly to the framing in the wall (3 inch #12 screws at every stud). The pocket in the back of the torsion box slides over the ledger and enough fasteners are added through the top and bottom of the box into the ledger to secure the shelf. There are metal brackets that appear on the market from time to time that faster to the wall and have a metal post sticking out that enters a pocket on the back of the shelf. The tend to have problems with securing the metal brackets to the wall solidly enough. Hollw wall anchors will not work for thses shelves. The shelf creates a large withdrawal load on the fasteners and will pull anchors right through the wall. You might be OK for a small shelf with light loads, but not books or heavy items. Rebar would be fine as a support, but it would need to be driven into a hole in the studs or glued in using epoxy to fill ang gaps (while making sure it stays level).

It seems like in the kitchens where the tile doesnt go all the way up, it works best when the cabinets (surrounding the range/hood) also dont go all the way to the ceiling. But, in your case the cabinet to the left of the range does go all the way up to the ceiling. So, I also vote for tile to the ceiling. And the staggered brick, but like steph said the stacked would also look nice, just a different "feel".

Hi, mshutterbug. I like your concept. It's essentially a "rotating" gallery wall and I think it will be interesting and fun. I'd go with shelves in a similar finish as that of the built-in top. In consideration of the shorties in the family, I'd add a light weight but sturdy step stool. (It's a drag sometimes, but working for what we want tends to build character!) It'll also serve as nice perch for a smaller person. Since you're thinking about ditching the framed cork board, consider some art in its place. As I'm sure you're aware, art is something that enriches and educates young and old alike. I think a lamp would be good, too. A table top terrarium would be educational and likely enjoyed by everyone in the family. You can make it and care for it together. They're really fun! I added an abacus, because it could be a learning opportunity for everyone in the house. They also have an orderly, sculptural quality I find appealing. Your aesthetic may differ. Here's a mock-up to illustrate my ideas. I hope it helps! (The rug placement/size can be addressed when and if you choose.)