I'll spare you all the curses my mother directed at her mother-in-law's flanken! They're basically short ribs cut across the bones, rather than along them. AFIK the Kalbi recipes that are all the same are Jewish too. It was a trendy recipe. Real Kalbi is Korean, and I have no more information there other than I expect you can find other versions if you look up Korean recipes.

You can prepare yours in any way you would short ribs, a long braise, stew, ground up, etc. Throw them in a long cooking soup for the meat and bone. Otherwise, braise them with whatever flavor profile you like, but include some sugar and some acid to break down the tough connective tissues. Beer braises are good. Really any short rib or rack of beef ribs recipe will work. Just check now and then for the timing.

Sous vide is a natural, but look up time and temp. Leave the bones in. Getting them out would be difficult and the bones add to the flavor. If handling the whole cut is a bother, you can cut it up.

Good luck!

"Flanken is a specific cut of meat used for preparing beef short ribs. It is often used in Asian dishes, but has found a following among American outdoor grill enthusiasts for its ease in cooking. Flanken also makes excellent boiling or stewing meat, and is served as part of a Jewish dish of the same name.

This cut of meat is differentiated from others by the way the meat and bone is cut and presented. Instead of cutting through the meat between each rib, the ribs are cut lengthwise. This results in strips of meat with medallions of bone in them. Traditionally, the meat and bone is cut around 0.25 inch (0.62 cm) thick."

*I* would slow cook them.

The Korean rib recipes use thinner cut ribs, and even then they are pretty chewy and even gristly in spots. Which is fine, for kalbi, but maybe an acquired taste.

I would also use a slow cook method (long braise, sous vide) or pressure cooker, then sear on high heat or grill to get browning. Just like plllog said.

I was shocked at the price the last time I bought flanken at the Asian market. I don’t know if that cut has gotten popular (like oxtail, which used to be cheap and now is spendy) or if I just happened on a price spike. Anyway, do right by that meat as it isn’t cheap :-)

So, what do y’all think of this (found somewhere online that now escapes me) - marinate the meat overnight in a teriyaki-ish marinade. Remove from marinade. Sous vide for 24-36 hours. Finish by browning on the grill.

John, I can’t do tough meats, especially ribs. I’m in the midst of straightening some teeth with Invisaligns. As often happens with braces, my teeth are sometimes sore. I don’t need or want mush, but I can’t do the caveman-ripping-meat-off-a-bone either.

If instead we braised the ribs, what is your favorite way? For years, I held onto a Fine Cooking magazine that had a template for braising short ribs. It was a pick-you-own-adventure sort of thing with lists of braising liquids, aromatics, herbs, etc. Of course, in a fit of de-cluttering, I pitched it. 🙃 What is your favorite method to braise? What is your favorite base to serve it over - grits? polenta? noodles? mashed potatoes?

I can give you what I do, but I think I found the text portion of what you threw away in an archive. It's not perfect (note, I think some of the stray characters may be printing cues or image indicators), but maybe enough to go on for an experienced cook like you. The secret to tough cuts like this is to cook them to the point where the tough breaks down, at which point, they're truly tender. :)

Fine Cooking

The raw and the cooked: Perfectly marbled English-style short ribs become a classic red wine braise.

A plate of braised short ribs has a Fred Flintstone meets Julia Child kind of appeal
that's hard to beat for a dinner party — or any midwinter meal, for that matter. Short ribs are beefy and bony and, well, manly, yet they have the comforting, rich flavor and meltingly tender texture of the best beef stew Actually, 111 take braised short ribs over beef
stew any day.

The technique is simple. Start by searing the short ribs (get out your biggest pot). Then cook a handful of aromatics, deglaze the pot with anything from wine to beer to apple cider, and simmer the ribs in broth (or more wine or beer) for several hours. By following this sear-and-long-simmer method, you'll quickly master the art of braising short ribs. What's different about this approach is that you get to choose the ingredients — aromatics, liquids, and garnishes — to create a different dish every time. You can start with one of the suggestions on page 42, but don't stop there. Go on — cook up your own favorite short rib recipe.

COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 3
COOK THE AROMATICS

Add the remaining 1 Tbs. oil and your choice of aromatics to the pan. browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add your choice of herbs, spices, and flavor

Season with x k tsp. salt. Cook, stirring and scraping up any browned boosters and cook, stirring, until well distributed and fragrant, about bits on the bottom of the pan, until the aromatics are soft and lightly 1 minute.

Aromatics
Choose up to three for a total of 2 cups (use at least % cup onions or leeks):
4%

Onions Leeks Carrots Celery Fennel
Cut into medium dice Thinly sliced or diced Cut into medium dice Cut into medium dice Cut into medium dice

Spices, Herbs, and Flavor Boosters
Choose three to five of the following, preferably at least 1 from each category (try to always use tomato paste, unless you're choosing crushed tomatoes as a braising liquid)

SPICES
4*
Star anise
2 to 3 whole Ground allspice
Vz to 1 tsp.
Pure chile powder
1tsp.
Ground cumin
1 to 2 tsp.
Ground paprika
1 to 2 tsp.
Ground coriander
1 to 2 tsp.

HERBS
4k.
Rosemary
Fresh, 2 tsp. chopped

FLAVOR BOOSTERS
Jalapefto
or serrano chile
1 to 2 Tbs. finely chopped
m St.
Olives
pitted, 1 /2cup
Thyme
Fresh, 1 Tbs. chopped
Tomato paste
(no salt added)
1Tbs.

Oregano
Fresh, 2 tsp. chopped
Anchovies
1 /2tsp. minced
4» J* *V •
Cinnamon sticks Oregano Dried mushrooms Dried fruit (such as fi
2 whole
Dried mushrooms
34 oz., steeped in hot water
and coarsely chopped
Bay leaves
Dried, 2 whole
Ginger
1 Tbs. finely chopped

Dried fruit (such as figs,
prunes, or apricots)
1 cup coarsely chopped
Garlic
1 Tbs. finely chopped

Photographs by Scott Phillips

FINECOOKING.COM 39

STEP 4
DEGLAZE
THE POT
Pour your choice of deglazing
liquid into the pot and cook,
stirring to scrape up any browned
bits on the bottom of the pot,
until the liquid is reduced to
about 2 Tbs., about 1 minute.

Deglazing Liquids
Choose one QA cup):
W
Sweet
apple cider
Beer
Dry red wine Dry white wine
Rice wine
Brandy, tequila,
whiskey, or rum
Vermouth
Sherry

Build your own short rib
recipes with our interactive
feature at FineCooking.com.

COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 5
ADD THE BRAISING LIQUIDS

Transfer all the ribs (and any juices that have accumulated) back into
the pot. Pour your choice of braising liquids over the ribs and using
tongs, arrange the ribs as evenly as possible and no more than two
layers deep. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover, and put the pot in the
oven. Cook, turning the ribs with tongs about every 40 minutes, until
they are fork tender, about 2% hours. (The meat may fall off most of
the bones about midway through cooking; this does not mean that
the ribs are fully tender.)

Braising Liquids
Choose up to four liquids from the list below for a total of 3 cups. Then add 1 cup water for a total of 4 cups liquid (mix well):
i — J
Beef:
up to % cup
diluted with
% cup water
Broth Dry red or Beer Tomatoes Soy Sauce Mushroom-
(lowersalt) white wine Upto1 1 /2Cups Canned (lower soaking
Chicken: Up to 3 cups crushed, up sodium) water
upto1 1 / 2 cups to 1 cup Upto 1 / 4 cup Up to 1 cup

Cook Ahead
It's best to braise short ribs a day (or at least several hours) ahead for a couple of reasons. First, this allows you to chill the sauce so it can be defatted thoroughly. Also, the flavors only get better with time. To reheat, arrange the meat snugly in a baking dish, cover with foil, and put in a 350°F oven. Reheat the sauce on the stovetop.

STEP 6
FINISH AND SERVE
Transfer the ribs to a serving platter or dish. Let the sauce and solids
sit in the pot for a few minutes to cool and with a shallow spoon, skim off
as much of the fat as possible from the surface. Season the sauce to
taste with salt and pepper, and add a finish of your choice. Serve the
ribs with the sauce spooned over, sprinkled with your choice of garnish.
If making ahead (see above), refrigerate the ribs and sauce separately.

Finishes (optional)
Choose one (1 to 2 tsp.):
Fresh lemon
or lime juice
Vinegar
(Red or white wine,
cider, sherry,
balsamic, etc.)

Garnishes (optional)
Choose one or two for a total of 1 to 2 Tbs.:

Parsley
Fresh, chopped
Mint
Fresh, thinly sliced
Basil
Fresh, thinly sliced
Cilantro
Fresh, chopped

FINECOOKING.COM 41

COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
Favorite Short Rib Recipes
Six great-tasting combos, and suggestions for what to drink with them.
D RED WINE
BRAISED
• Onion, carrots,
celery
• Bay leaf, garlic
• Red wine
• Red wine,
beef broth
• Red wine vinegar

To drink: Bodegas
Ramirez de la Piscina
2005, Rioja, Spain, $15
□ TUSCAN
• Onions, carrots,
fennel
• Thyme, paprika,
coriander,
anchovies, garlic
• Red wine
• Red wine, beef
broth, crushed
tomatoes
• Parsley

To drink: Monte-
vertine Pian del
Ciampolo2008,
Sangiovese and
Canaiolo blend, $18

V
B TUNISIAN
INSPIRED
• Onions, carrots
• Star anise, cin-
namon sticks, dried
figs, ginger, garlic
• Red wine
• Red wine, crushed
tomatoes, soy
sauce, chicken
broth
• Mint, parsley
To drink: Kurosawa
Brewery Jun-Mai
Kimoto sake, $18

E) PROVENgAL
• Leeks, carrots,
celery
• Rosemary,
bay leaves, olives,
tomato paste, garlic
• Brandy
• Red wine,
chicken broth
• Basil
To drink: Domaine du
Bagnol Cassis Blanc
2007, Provence, $24

B HUNTER'S
STYLE
• Onions, carrots,
celery
• Thyme, paprika,
tomato paste, dried
mushrooms, garlic
• Vermouth
• Mushroom-soaking
water, chicken broth,
red wine
• Parsley
To drink: Chaz Point
Cabernet Sauvignon
2006, Columbia
Valley, Washington
State, $23

□ SOUTH-
WESTERN
• Onions, carrots
• Oregano, coriander,
chile powder,
cumin, garlic
• Beer
• Beef broth, crushed
tomatoes, red wine
• Cilantro
To drink: Fleurde
California Petite Sirah,
Central Coast, $16

Serving Suggestions
Braised short ribs are delicious with starchy, rustic side dishes.
Choose one that's a good foil for the flavor profile you've picked.
For example, the Tuscan short ribs are tasty with creamy polenta
enhanced with a bit of Parmigiano or other cheese. Try the Hunter's-
style short ribs over fresh wide pasta noodles, like pappardelle. Spicy
Tunisian-inspired short ribs are a natural with fluffy herbed couscous,
whereas Southwestern short ribs call for a hearty rice pilaf spiked with
toasted pine nuts or almonds. And any short rib dish, no matter the
flavor, will be delicious served with potatoes-yes, good old mashed
potatoes are a great match.

Susie Middleton is Fine Cooking's editor at large. Her first
cookbook, Fast, Fresh & Green: 125 Delicious Recipes for
Veggie Lovers, is due out in April □

42 FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2010

Plllog! you’re the best. That is the article. I remembered that fennel was one of the choices!! When I was looking earlier, I found where the guys at The Bitten Word had made the Tunisian style short ribs from that same template.

Thanks so much for tracking down the full article for me!! I really hate that Fine Cooking went away. They did the ”choose your own adventure” take on several different foods.

Plllog, I forgot to ask, how do you cook short ribs? John, how about you?

You're very welcome!

I haven't made short ribs in years, but I've made them several different ways, including the crossways cut, which I don't like as much. I try to get the single long bone kind to just barely clinging to the bone. The kind I do that is easiest and scales well is a beer braise that's dead easy. I can't find a reference for it and I think I may have simplified an overly complex version.

I have this note from Chowhound to brown them in the oven, which is the only way to go for a large group. "Usually, I brown short ribs before braising by searing them on all sides for 3-5 minutes per side. Last night, though, I was making a much larger batch and decided instead to roast them in the oven at 450 for around 45 minutes, bone side down, as some recipes call for. Even packed pretty closely, they browned beautifully, with more evenness and crustiness than searing on the stovetop, and it required no checking and created no spattery mess. Then I braised them for hours at 300 in a mixture of beef broth, shloshing wine, ginger, scallion, star anise, cinnamon, and cloves.

Oven-roasting was less work, better outcome, easier to do in large quantity than searing -- so why do most recipes call for searing on the stove rather than browning in the oven? When I taste them tonight, will I discover some downside of having roasted them?"

I've used the oven directions, not the rest, but thought you might be interested.

Here's my Easy Beer (or wine for Passover) Braise:

Dry rub: brown sugar, smoked Spanish paprika, ginger, mustard powder, cumin, S&P

4 long ways bone-in short ribs

1 onion, cut into approx. inch cubes

2-3 celery ribs cut into half inch slices

equivalent volume of baby carrots

2-4 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped

1 large can (28 oz) diced tomatoes

1 bottle wheat ale or beer

light olive oil

--OR--

18 Short Ribs

4-5 onions

14 stalks celery

10 big carrots

14 garlic cloves

4-5 cans diced tomatoes

1-2 bottles wine or 3-4 bottles lager or light ale

Preheat to 375° F.

Make rub and press into all sides of short ribs. Let rest while prepping or at least 1 hour.

Cut veg.

Heat pan to hot, but not so hot the spices will burn. Heat oil. Brown ribs on all 6 sides. (or brown them in the oven.) Reserve ribs in pot lid or plate.

Add oil to pan. Add veg. Stir. Brown for about five minutes.

Add tomatoes and juice. Add half the ale or wine. Reduce liquid by half.

Put ribs in meat side down, with veg between all ribs. Cover and put in oven.

Cook for 1.5 hours.

Turn ribs over, cover and cook 1.25 hrs. Add more beer (wine) if needed (liquid should be 1/2-3/4 the way up the meat.

Uncover and cook for 20-30 min, or until well caramelized.

Serve together with the veg.

Option: Wine may be used in place of beer or ale. One such is necessary to break down the connective tissue.

Another way to go, easy style, is to just kind of roast them and then slosh them with barbecue sauce for the last 20 min. or so. I don't think that would work as well for the flanken cut, however.

You could also do the coke braise. Slather with tomato and onions and use coke for your braising liquid (caffeine free is less bitter). Sugar and acid.

Or crushed pineapple and orange juice thinned with water or booze.

Or brown sugar and lemons.

@dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m, do you marinate the ribs before sous viding?

No need to marinate ahead of 72 hour sous vide. I add seasoning in the sous vide bag. That's 72 hours of marinating.

dcarch

bbstx,

When slow cooking or sous viding, I also do the marinating at the same time as the cooking. With slow cooking, you can also reduce the marinade / cooking liquid during the cook, to make a sauce.

Personally, I actually just grill my flanken, brushing on sauce as I go, because it is fast and I like some gristly chewy bits. Ever Every since I was a kid, I’ve liked stuff like cartilage, gristle, tendons - within reason of course. I think it’s a Chinese thing, because there’s some dishes that are specifically about cartilage. But if I were making it for others, I’d do the slow/sous then sear/grill thing. And yours might be cut too thick for that anyway.