Climbing Fig Yellowing After Transplant
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
last year
A neighbor no longer wanted her Climbing Figs, so I took those and planted them in front a stone wall here. The planting spot was raised slightly, and the native soil was mixed with a good planting soil that has modest amounts of fertilizer mixed in by the manufacturer. pH is around 6.8. The Climbing Figs are yellowing a little bit, as shown in the photos. Is this normal transplant stress, or should I be worried about some other mistake in the planting?
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
last yearwestes Zone 9b California SF Bay thanked ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
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Enormous Yellow Figs
Comments (61)Hey ya'll, it looks like someone revived this old thread. My tree is now about 2 feet tall, and will be transplanted once things warm up. it is very rootbound right now, so it will surely take off once in ground. It has survived several winters now, with no protection, so I assume it has adapted to my 7b climate. Anyway, I will take a picture in a month or so. Hey Ben, can you report any results from your cuttings? Sorry about forgetting this thread, everybody...See MoreYellow mottled leaves - Celeste Fig
Comments (10)it's too late to be adding organic nitrogen if you live in zone 7a it will push too much new growth before the wood can harden off for winter. get through this season and fertilize in spring. it's perfectly fine to be a little depleted on N if growing figs outside of zone 8. in ground. organic fertilizer takes weeks to be taken up by the plant and thus feeding the plant over a longer period ie 3--6 months so use manures and meals about 2 weeks before the first leaf pushes out and use compost tea for a boost throughout the season if you feel the need. but again give your tree time to stop growing before the first frost. the dark color wood is what you want to see on over 90%of the tree by te 1st of october. or it could die to the ground or die all the way. mulch around your tree and only water once a week. next year if you keep it mulched you may not need to water it at all. inground figs trees take neglect well and clay holds tons of water so the trees will be fine going 5-7 days between watering just be sure to use at least 4 inches of mulch or better and keep the mulch off trunk of the tree. also only water the soil not the leaves or you'll get rust or other fungal diseases on the foliage. good luck, and don't go broke buying all that expensive crap at organic stores a little lime and compost go a long way my friend. growing organic is supposed to be cheep but big business has stuck there greedy hands in the mix and now it's just stupid at what they try to tell you need to grow things properly. I'd never use fish emulsion because raccoons are attracted to i fish and they will eat your ripe figs if there happen to be any at the time of his visit. I'd never buy rock dust, seaweed powder and all that other crap. people have been growing things for thousands of years without the need for such things. I'm all for feeding the soil but again compost goes a long way and the more diverse the compost the better. if you don't have a compost pile , bin or tumbler start or invest in one instead of wasting your money on nutes at the garden center....See MoreTomato Leaves Yellowing with Spots
Comments (1)1) the spots at this time look more like some kind of mechanical damage, wind/cold burn/pollution or edema that has likely since passed. If that's what it is there is no need to spray fungicide and there is nothing you can do about it at this point. Only one picture I saw looks much like fungal spots. 2) the plants are in need of phosphorus (purpling). Unless you use something like bat guano tea very few organic sources will be able to get enough P to them quickly. If you use a high P amount liquid "bloom" fertilizer they will not look like that in about 5 days....See MoreWesterland Climbing Rose is not blooming, not growing much
Comments (11)Any procedure that places a plant within a small area of one soil texture surrounded by a much larger area of different texture can and often does result in the movement of water into and out of the small area being adversely affected. All that is necessary for this water related issue to occur is that there be a difference in textures between the small amended area and the larger, unaltered area around it. Slower establishment of plants placed in amended planting holes began to be noticed by accident at the university level in the 1960s. Multiple subsequent organized trials exploring this aspect intentionally have had consistent recurring outcomes. Amending of large areas - while avoiding the water movement problem except at the edges of the beds - for woody and other long term plants still has the problem of any organic materials used decomposing and disappearing long before the typical intended life of the planting is over. So that the original planting might as well have been made into loosened existing soil, without the addition of amendments. The Myth of Indisputable Information "Nursery brochures are always the best sources of appropriate planting practices” https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/planting-instructions.pdf Horticultural Techniques for Successful Plant Establishment https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/Planting-fact-sheet.pdf...See Morewestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
last yearwestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
last yearwestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
last yearwestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
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