UPDATE: The manager sent someone out (crazy thing is that they wanted to send the original installer? HUH...I specifically requested someone else, afterall how unbiased could the original guy be? I can hear it now...UM GEE MAAM, I really did do a crappy job, what a mess, I dont know what I was thinking to leave your kitchen in this state, I should have stayed in bed that day") anyway, they apparently attempted to reach him and couldn't so they sent a different guy. Who agreed, that this guy left it a mess. He was very efficient and proficient at "fixing" the hack job the other guy left. No new countertops, but without doubt much better. this new guy showed me the paperwork (which was a print out of all the communication from all parties on this "escallation" and what's ironic is that the original guy was finally reached by them and he reported that he did the cutting at the request of the store and ME and that he told ME that HE normally doesn't do this type of work, but I INSISTED that he do it anyway, so that I could get the stove put in. YA RIGHT...he did admit that he should have sanded the cabinets down, but didn't etc. anyway, he lied and he made a liar out of one of the store manangers who very confidentally proclaimed that his installers are qualified to do the cabintry work. I think this guy will not be getting all the referrals from them too much longer. I found out that Best Buy charges the contracting company $500 a day for these types of things...until they are resolved. So they were on it like greased lightening. Well anyway, here are some after pics. The pic of the front right edge which was cut way too deep, we used quickwood on it and IRL, it actually blends much better, it's a pinkish beige color very close to the counters. He put in place also the laminate counter top edges (precut for such an application) and that will seal off the counter from the inevitable water, grease etc from the stove. it was not a match, but it does help it blend better with the stove AND I told the guy it just might become my inspiration colors to use when/if I attempt to repaint the counters. NOW, I need to touch up the paint on the cabinet bases and change out the knobs and search for a new paint color and then consider what materials/paint I can get from SW before their 25% off sale ends :)

I hope the OP kept her cabinets in Pure White. The kitchen reminds me of a beautiful one that popped up here some years ago - that of an architectural historian. I think the poster was histokitch or something like that. The cabinets look lovely and I'm afraid, I far far prefer them to the trim colour. If I were going to do anything at all, I'd change the trim to match the cabinets rather than the other way around. The undertones can surprise one. I don't know anything about BM paints but I have a lot of Farrow and Ball paints in my house. The trim in a lot of my house is painted Pointing which is widely described as a clean white, vanilla ice, fresh milk etc. Well, Pointing has a red base. Not speculation but fact as F&B declares it so. Nowhere in my house is that red base evident as it mostly appears either brilliant white or at best a slightly creamy white. Nowhere, did I say? Except, that is, for a couple of our North facing rooms. The same paint, from the same cans etc. is a clear peach colour! You'd never know it is the same paint as anywhere else in the house! (Needless to say, that room is going to have to have a do-over).

> Hi- so are you saying venting isn't needed? I don't see anyone say that, and if they did I'll disagree. However if not vented I doubt your oven will have a catastrophic failure now or even many years from now. > im kind of panicking… Suggest you do two things to address the panic. 1- Ask whoever designed and built your kitchen if he/she followed the install specifications, specifically the rear ventilation specs. Send a copy of the spec pages from the install/operating document if you think there's any chance they are brushing you off, as in "yea, yea, yea, we followed the specs, now don't bother us anymore...", and also so you have a record. And 2- Call into Miele tech support (not the new customer design support) and ask if lack of venting per the specs will be a problem. In all likelihood miele tech support will say you shouldn't do that, but at least you will know the answer now and not five or ten years from now when your builder, contractor or kitchen designer is retired or no longer in business. P.S: If your kitchen was designed by a professional and you find out they did not follow the specs then clearly that's a problem and you need to ask why not. Then ask yourself what your agreement was with said design professional, did you sign a contract or was it verbal, is design pro licensed and certified, etc. Getting something designed, installed and built correctly -- to manufacturer specs -- is the key (to long life, to warranty coverage, to failures), whether you are talking simple drywall, common plumbing fixtures, regular old concrete, etc., ... or multi-thousand dollar hi-tech ovens.

This is an issue that requires some measurements and some analysis. To even know where you are you need to measure the pressure in the house relative to outside the house as a function of different settings of vent air flow and MUA air flow. Either hire someone to make the measurements or buy (cost is fairly modest, as I recall) a differential air pressure device. In test kitchens, the means of introducing MUA is via a perforated wall some distance from the test stove/vent air handling equipment (hood). What is desirable is that the MUA, when it gets to the air volume between the cooktop and the hood entry aperture, be relatively non-turbulent. Introducing MUA at one's feet next to the stove may or may not achieve this. Often the toe kick spaces there are too small, and may, depending on configuration, aim at some other structure (wall, island, whatever) that will force the air flow up. Now there is turbulent air all around the cook and the hood. I think the MUA exit area(s) should not be too much smaller than the hood entrance area unless the MUA injection point is fairly far from the hood. In a (completely burger odor free) burger joint in Concord NH there is a CaptiveAire system in which the MUA is expelled downward from the ceiling in front of the hood. (This aperture is actually part of the hood assembly.) I would estimate that the MUA aperture is roughly half that of the typical very large commercial hood aperture, although I cannot see all of the hood aperture from the customer seating area to be very exact about this. In my residential configuration, a 3 x 3 foot ceiling diffuser is used about 20 ft down a hall from my 10 sq. ft. aperture hood. This hall delivery should slow down the air velocity to about 37 ft/min, which is a slight breeze -- less than a half mph. I haven't pressurized the MUA yet, but I have seen the effect of an interior split cycle air conditioner head spilling air toward the hood, there is significant plume displacement. Is your MUA source via a basement, or via the roof? It might be better if you dumped the MUA at the ceiling directed away from the hood such that the air takes a longer path to the hood aperture. Or dump it into diffusers at various locations in ceilings connected to the kitchen. (This might be a casus belli if not heated.) Or use a lot more toe kick area. Besides measurement, I would check that with windows open, MUA off, and hood on, that you can cook something and see it fully captured and contained by the hood system. Then as you close up windows, and do whatever you are doing (manually?) to set MUA flow, does this start interrupting the capture efficiency? And yes, if you don't have a closed loop controller then both hood and MUA should have continuously variable controls. By analysis I meant making a gross estimation from the hood system fan curve and the properties of your vent system of what flow rate you may be achieving. (There are contractors who can measure this by temporarily replacing a door with a measurement device.) Ditto for the MUA system. What is its fan curve vs. ducting, filtering, diffuser pressure loss, and heating scheme, if present? If your actual replacement air is 200 CFM, then ideally you want the MUA to be 200 CFM less than the hood can pull when the house pressure relative to outside is zero. One expects that if the house pressure is positive, more air will flow out the hood system. But in your case I suspect, as did opaone above, that there is really a lot of turbulence around the hood and this turbulence is interfering with the cooking plumes attempting to rise to the capture area (the hood entry aperture). kas