Crown moulding. Keep , remove or replace?
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They installed the wrong crown moulding!
Comments (10)The main thing with flooring is to have it at the same level of humidity as the house when you install it, so that everything will (sort of) move together. There will be movement and seasonal opening and closing of cracks as the humidity changes over the year, there's nothing to be done about that, What you don't want to do is apply bone dry flooring on a wet subfloor/frame because over time the flooring will pick up moisture and expand while the floor/frame shrinks resulting in buckling. (or gaps if the flooring is high moisture and the frame low). There will still be seasonal movement because the subfloors are either plywood and more dimensionally stable than flooring or planks laid perpendicular to the flooring and thus expanding and contracting in different directions. In general the effects of temperature on wood are trivial compared to humidity, just the opposite of metal or plastic. In a perfect world you'd install everything at a nice annual median temperature in humidity. Good luck in getting your builder to schedule that! All of this movement will continue every year as the seasons change forever, so during construction all you're really trying to do is to avoid mismatches in humidity levels. Wherever possible make provision for movement--for example in making frame and panel doors for cabinets finish the panels fully before installing them in the frames so that when the panel shrinks in winter you don't expose an unfinished edge. For what it's worth drywall is billed as moving about 0.016 mm per meter per deg C or 0.072 mm/M/%RH change, so a sheet of drywall isn't going to change very much. Wood movement on the other hand can be up to 20 mm for a meter wide tabletop for normal seasonal swings in humidity from 20% to 80%....See MoreWhat size crown moulding?
Comments (4)I've changed my mind (how unlike me!). Go with a bigger, but simple crown. An inch, or maybe two more, would look great when the valance is gone and paint/staining finished. Here's a pic of the nothingness I currently have at the top of mine: I have just enough room to squish in the same moulding you have, but am considering lowering the cabinets an inch or two to put something more substantial. This post was edited by Errant on Mon, Mar 10, 14 at 23:35...See MoreCrown moulding removel question
Comments (4)Price out mew crown of the same size (or larger) and then decide from there. Depending ion how well attached the crown is it can range from very destructive (someone used glue) to not bad (just nailed). You can cut the paint joint with a utility knife, then pry nailed crown off. A piece of 1x4 about 2 feet long under a wonder bar will prevent breaking through the drywall. An old drywall knife can usually be driven under the molding to start an opening, then use a wonder bar against the drywall knife, then move on to the 1x lumber pad. Try and find the cope at a corner and remove that piece before (the other piece in the corner is trapped behind the coped end). If the joints are simply mitered you can start with either one. Long piece are better to start with since there is usually more spring to start on them near the middle. If you use slightly wider crown you can cover the paint line from the old crown, otherwise you may have to carefully scrape and smooth the paint line....See MoreCrown moulding questions, X-post
Comments (5)iron_city, I could remove the 1 1/2" moulding and replace it with something bigger, but finding the mahogany to do it would be very expensive. I might be able to use pine moulding stained to match. Does your crown moulding match the bookcases? That's one of the dilemmas I'm facing: do I mix stain colors? That is, how would "special walnut" crown moulding look against a mahogany stain? Never thought about painting the mortar! Need to experiment with , say, concrete stain. thanks for the idea....See Morelavender12145
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