You got me interested. All I read about Ento leaf spot is that if affects plants in Rose family including apple and pear. None mentioned that it affects cherry. Are you sure you don't have bacterial leaf spot on cherry? It's a common disease for cherry. You should Google pictures of the bacterial leaf spot on cherry and compare. Some look like yours, too. Your cherry leaves look quite different from cherry leaves on all my trees. Yours is wide with round top. Mine is narrow with pointed tip. Anyway, I don't know the fungicide you use but fungicide like myclobutanil (brandname like Immunox) or chlorothalonil (Daconil) is recommended for both Ento leaf spot and bacterial leaf spot.

I haven't seen anything out there except an occassional large black bug that was all over the sunflowers last year. I'll try the beer bottle trick tonight and see what I get. Thanks for your response.

its invasive in many areas.. and if in your area... get rid of it ... its potential is 10 feet tall and 12 wide.. over the years... so its improperly sited ... bugs had nothing to do with this.. this plant is nearly indestructible ... you could take a mature one.. and cut it to 3 inches.. and within a year or two... it would be bigger than it was before ... i suspect herbicide damage ... cut it to the ground.. and see what happens ... ken

Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!