How much water is it receiving? Looks healthy fo me. Look on underside of yellowing leaves for any black dots, which could indicate the start of a fungal disease called black spot. You can remove those leaves & any fallen leaves below the rose. to prevent the spores from reinfecting the plant. Also apply mulch around your roses. This helps prevent fungal spores found naturally in the soil from splashing upward when it rains or you water. The mulch also acts as a weed block and decreases watering requirements by keeping the soil below moist. Use about a 3” layer. Don’t pile the mulch against the canes either.

When growing peppers, your biggest enemy may be the bacterial spot of pepper, an incredibly destructive disease that causes yellow and brown spots on all parts of your plants and fruit. This eventually leads to defoliation, loss of fruit yield and low quality crops. This disease is especially prevalent in areas with frequent rainfall and high temperatures during growing seasons. **Diagnosing** Bacterial spot of pepper can be found on the leaves, stems and fruits of the pepper plant. On the leaves it usually beings as a yellow lesion, small in size. As these get bigger they spread to larger parts of the leaf and the center of the lesion becomes brown and dried, eventually breaking out entirely and leaving a hole. If a leaf or plant has a number of these lesions, they can join together and form long lines of holes or discolored areas. The tips and edge of the leaf then begins to dry and break off, followed by the rest of the leaf. When found on the fruit, these lesions are green and raised. They become brown with scabby centers. Lesions on the stems are darker, almost black, and long. **Cause** Bacterial spot of pepper is caused by a bacteria, called Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria. This bacteria can come from infected seeds, soil or crop residue. Dried seeds can carry this disease for 10 years, and infected soil for six months. Pepper plants can become infected if they suffer a puncture or wound. This can then be spread through water, cultivating techniques, hoeing and transplanting. **Prevention and Treatment** To prevent bacterial spot of pepper, keep your fields free of debris, and use pathogen-free transplants and seeds. Rotate your crops so that you are only growing peppers every three to four years. If you have a problem with bacterial spot of pepper, make sure to deep-plow your fields so that the infected debris is buried deep. There are some pesticides that may also be helpful to stop the spread of this bacteria. Here is a link that might be useful: Spots on pepper plants

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

Added zone info. Well, I won't be able to find out (quickly) now by digging. Just had a thunderstorm with rain pouring down all night. Guess I'll see if that helps. The whole plant itself isn't bad. Aside from the brown patches, there is no other obvious issue. No leaves/branch die back. The last couple of weeks has been hot and with clear sun. Just hovering over 30C degree and the location gets full sun from morning to probably 3-5pm. However I have some hydrangea (also new) in the vicinity so I have been forced to water them daily with this heat. I did try to avoid the Burning bush somewhat when watering so it isn't soaked every day. The soil in that spot is decently deep, but hasn't been planted with for probably over a decade. I added alot of compose before planting. Lota cedar mulch, more so on the hydrangea, but should be a good 2" around the burning bush too.