Can an installer tell me what the make up of these windows are?
This is the sticker that came on them, can you tell me the makeup? are they regular Okna 800 or deluxe with Argon and Low E etc…?
Comments (18)
millworkman
last yearshane goodman
last yearlast modified: last yearRelated Discussions
Make-up Air - Please explain what I need to tell my contractors
Comments (6)See Martin Holladay's article. If you don't get makeup air from a dedicated intake, it will be drawn through all the air leaks in your home and possibly even backdrafting CO from the furnace and water heater if these are not closed units. Though I know you're looking for a cheap answer, I'd suggest finding a more educated HVAC designer with commercial experience to be safe. However, if you don't run the exhaust all out all the time there may be no need for makeup air. We had a 700 cfm unit that was only run full throttle when my spouse cooked fish and offal. I just cracked open a patio door and all was OK....See MoreThis sink install is messed up, right? Tell me what and why plz
Comments (47)And. Is it not possible that perfectly level and plumb cabs can have the install screwed up anyway? I'm still not fully in the camp that these guys didn't mess up the install and it isn't the cabs (DH) issue OR that a little bit of appropriate shimming under the counter BEFORE they stuck the backsplash to the wall might have mitigated any cab level issue. They never checked the level of anything that we remember and if they did there was no mention about a problem to us. Do counter installers not check for level before they install or do they just go forward assuming everything is level? The thing that really sticks in my craw about the installers abilities/ethics is how they left the counter to the right of the sink unsupported for 3 feet and it's just suspended in air over the sink flange with a glob of caulk to close the gap, no shims at all anywhere even. If they are willing to do that there knowing it is wrong what else did they do just to get the job done? I mean you can't have 3 feet of solid surface counter cantilevered over nothing, right? Doesn't that void warranty or lend itself to breaking or whatnot? I guess I have a lot more faith in DH's abilities (him having done a wonderful job on 90% of the DIY here)than in the ability of almost all the people we've hired for this house remodel and I'm not fully ready to lay this on the door step of his cab install. I've just seen too much slipshod work done that he's had to fix, I guess. But, I also know and he admits that he dislikes finish type stuff and has a tendency to get impatient and rush through things once it gets past the 2x4 stage, so that is also possible here. If it is the cabs then I feel bad for him but again, I'm not there yet. The jury is out til Monday morning and then we'll see. I hope you are right Trebruchet that the counter can come out without damaging the splash. We had a thin coat of plaster on the drywall behind all the splash. I hope that helps and doesn't hurt possible removal. What was that saying? "If everyone on your block throws their problems out in the street, you'll probably run to grab your problems back". Guess I'll take this one over other possibilities, right? :) Whatever needs to be done we'll do that and maybe there is a lesson in this mess, too....See MoreTell me all about your bottom up/down window coverings!
Comments (4)We have no pics, but we got Hunter-Douglas honeycomb-type for our bathroom, cordless, with a remote. They work beautifully. The remote is nice because you don't have to lean across the bathtub (or in your case, walk across the room) to put them up/down. There's a lifetime guarantee. We can sit in the tub and look at the view outside with complete privacy, just what we wanted....See MoreCan someone tell me the order of install on a freestanding tub faucet
Comments (11)"Hmmm, I am very concerned, as the instructions on the filler, don't mention any sort of rough in valves...." A misunderstanding of what I wrote. You are right, there is no rough-in valve for your installation. Your "valve" is built in to finished piece, where the hot and cold handles are. When I wrote "Rough plumbing gets located and stubbed out" I was referring to just the hot and cold supply tubing coming up through the floor. After reading the directions you linked, you don't need any stub outs coming up through the floor. All you need is a 1-1/2" hole through the tile and through the subfloor. Your hot and cold water supply lines underneath the floor need to terminate with (probably) threaded end fittings within 4"-6" of the underside of that hole. I'm guessing (could be different, see the parts in your faucet) that the fitting will be a 1/2" CxM fitting that'll probably look like this. One end of that CxM fitting gets soldered to your 1/2" copper supply lines, one hot, one cold, that are under the subfloor. The flex tubing included with your faucet goes from your faucet's threaded connector to the threaded end of that CxM connector. Again, all that 1/2" stuff is a sizing guess on my part. Back to the main question...the plumber should designate where he wants the faucet hole in the floor. He can drill a hole through the subfloor where he wants it and terminate the supply lines under the floor at that location. Your tile guy can then come in and tile the floor and while doing so, leave a nice 1-1/2" hole right above the hole that the plumber drilled in the subfloor. If the tile guy will do his work before the plumber does any of his work, just tell the tile guy where to leave the 1-1/2" hole. In writing. With a measured drawing. Or with a big "X" on the floor. Make sure it gets put in the right location. lol The plumber can come later and plumb to the hole from below and install the faucet from above. Lots of words! Sorry!...See More
PROtoddinmn
last yearshane goodman
last yearshane goodman
last year- PRO
toddinmn
last year Window Genius
last yearmillworkman
last year- PRO
toddinmn
last year shane goodman
last yearWindow Genius
last yearlast modified: last year
PROWindows on Washington Ltd
last year
PROHomeSealed Exteriors, LLC
last year- PRO
toddinmn
last year 
Jessica Bryant
last yearHello, I'm not a dealer but I am a windows production/fabrication technician ( I make the windows lol) for a different company. I located your NFRC# on your sticker and I can read and understand the codes. You're good 😊👍. The letters are the company that makes them, the # is how energy efficient it is. The lower the number the better it is at keeping heat/ cool air in. 23 is a pretty good number. And yes, as a standard unless otherwise requested, all LE windows have argon. Hope this helps! Oh! And take that picture of the sticker and keep it safe! If you EVER need anything replaced such as a tilt latch, or sash, they require the order numbers so we can quickly fabricate the exact part. There should be one on each sash as well as one on the side of the frame and one located up top between the inside of the upper sash and frame. I also know all to well how easy it is to tear them or just fall off lol.
- PRO
HomeSealed Exteriors, LLC
last year@Jessica Bryant , that information is mostly helpful, but slightly off base/incomplete. That is not the full CPD number listed on the sticker, just the first part designating the model. Your picture in this case shows a range of u values based on that, with triple pane glass in particular. This homeowner did not get triple pane glass.
The actual NFRC CPD listing would be something like this:
The U value for that window would be .26 with low-e, argon, and foam which is still very good for a double pane.Very good advice on taking a picture of that sticker for the reasons that you mentioned.
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Windows on Washington Ltd
last year
Window Genius