Island cooktop fix

last year

last modified: last year

Would demo-ing out the wall oven/microwave allow me to use the space for a freestanding range (induction or gas) and OTR microwave? I'm looking for the easiest way (not necessarily the cheapest) to solve the problem of having a cooktop on the island. The island sits below a bedroom in a two story home and currently has a downdraft radiant electric cooktop. It is not safe for my toddler and I hate radiant cooktops. I've looked into induction, but there doesn't seem to be a way of venting the island with one. The oven is on an outside wall.

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Comments (13)

PRO
User
last year
Not with that wall there, no. That would be unsafe. If you can demo out the pantry (?) that the wall is part of, then maybe.
April Zuffranieri
Original Author
last year
Do inductions require side wall clearance?
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Xicano, our island is 8 feet wide by a bit over 4 feet deep. There is 1 foot (plus 1.5 inch of overhang) to the left of the range top. The range top is 3 feet wide. There is a 24" inch cabinet holding the spice drawer, microwave and another drawer between the rangetop and the sink cabinet which is also 24" wide. Definitely not symmetrical. 1. Symmetry was never a design goal for us. Neither my husband nor I find it necessary or desirable. An L plus island layout is inherently asymmetric anyway. Even more so with a refrigerator and wall ovens at the end of one leg of the L. 2. To us, the kitchen is primarily a workspace for making food - a big tool holding other tools. We cook quite a bit and it has to function well both for a single cook and multiple cooks. We spend a lot of time there, have family visiting and sometimes entertain there so we want it to look nice and be a pleasant space, but it has to work. So even if symmetry was something we wanted, we wouldn't sacrifice usability to get it. 3. There is more than one way to look at symmetry especially with an L layout. It turns out that by putting the rangetop off-center in the island, the rangetop and hood are centered against the wall (the long leg of the L). I think it ends up looking more balanced than it would if we had put the rangetop in the center of the island. We find that this layout works very well for us. I wouldn't want any less space between the rangetop and the sink. We have times when 3 or 4 people are doing food prep and the space works well for that. Sometimes we have two people prepping at the prep sink. One at the end of the island with the sink on their left and one between the rangetop and the sink. We thought about that when we chose the sink and the position for the faucet. The 1 foot wide cabinet to the left of the range top is a pull out for bottled staples (oil, vinegar, etc.) which is very convenient when working at the range. I wouldn't want any less space there. If we had room for it, another few inches would be nice but it is workable the way it is. Possibly, we could have gone with a 15" wide sink in an 18" cabinet and had 6 more inches of counter to the left of the rangetop or between the rangetop and the sink. However, there are times when the sink is pretty fully utilized too, so that might not be any better. It would not have worked well for us with the range centered. That would have left only 6 inches between the rangetop and the sink. I think that would also have looked odd and out of balance with the prep sink, wall ovens, fridge and rangetop all piled up at one edge of the kitchen.
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We have a similar setup: open LR & DR that goes out to the ocean-view deck and we have friends and family over for multi-course meals often. We went with a small prep sink on the large island (raised with chairs on one side) and the range top on the outside wall. Commenters are right, much of the time is spent prepping, and with large dinner parties a gallery forms around the bar while I, and whomever I've recruited to help, works away. With people comes commotion and noise, and add the ventilation, and it starts to get hard to hear your guests. If you situate that ventilation on the island, you've inserted a distinct noise source into the middle of your every day life. So when your kids telling you about their day, the news on TV... whatever - it's all competing with the vent. At least if it's on the wall, it's more on the periphery, and you'll have more options, bigger capture area, better ability to manage that noise. However, if you are set on the island, an overhead is most effective and there are attractive options even with a high ceiling. Check out the gallery on houzz https://www.houzz.com/photos/island-range-hood-phbr0lbl-bl~l_789
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That's a veneer panel that is so thin that I can't imagine it was held in place by nails. I suspect that whatever the glue was it was insufficient or has failed. To fix it, first take the panel completely off, since it looks like at least half of it has come away and is being partially held on by the electrical plate. Then you would need to buy good quality carpenter's glue like Titebond and spread it evenly with a roller and position the panel back in place. The hard part for you is that it does need to be clamped, and I suspect that you don't have much in the way of specialized clamps to do this. If you have doors on both sides of the island, you could temporarily remove them, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to the size of the panel, and then clamp this up against the panel while the glue dries. If you don't have doors on both sides, there are other ways to do clamping, but it's more complicated and I'm not going to try to detail it here. If this sounds like it exceeds your skills and available supply of clamps, then you need to get a handyman or cabinet person in to do the repair.
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kaseki
last year
Choose a nominal induction cooktop, download the installation directions, and see what they say about distances to combustibles. The induction cooktop won't heat the wall, but an unplanned flambė most certainly will.

It is generally deemed awkward to not have working space on each side next to a cooktop.
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kaseki
last year
Sometimes ceiling joists run in a direction that allows venting via a duct between the joists to the outside wall.
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Louise Smith
last year
From GE website on installing a free standing or slide-in induction range.

MINIMUM DIMENSIONS BETWEEN COOKTOP, WALLS AND ABOVE THE COOKTOP:

A. Make sure the wall covering, countertop, flooring and cabinets around the range can withstand the heat (up to 200°F) generated by the range.

B. Allow 30” minimum clearance between surface units and bottom of unprotected wood or metal cabinet, or allow a 24” minimum when bottom of wood or metal cabinet is protected by no less than 1/4” thick flame retardant millboard covered with not less than No 28 MSG sheet metal, (.015”), .015” thick stainless steel, .024” aluminum or .020” copper. Acceptable electrical outlet area. Orient electrical receptacle so the length is parallel to floor. Use a flush mount outlet for double oven models.

C. This appliance has been approved for 0” spacing to adjacent surfaces above the cooktop. However, a 6” minimum spacing to surfaces less than 15” above the cooktop and adjacent cabinet is recommended to reduce exposure to steam, grease splatter and heat.

To reduce the risk of burns or fire when reaching over hot surface elements, cabinet storage space above the cooktop should be avoided. If cabinet storage space is to be provided above the cooktop, the risk can be reduced by installing a range hood that projects at least 5” beyond the front of the cabinets. Cabinets installed above the cooktop must be no deeper than 16”
dan1888
last year
I'd explore another possibility. This may not be the least expensive. Removing the ovens creates a space. You may be able to move a lower and upper cabinet into that space. This means a straight cut front to back of the counter. And then you move a 30" cabinet and the newly cut 30" piece of counter over to the wall. Move an upper. You have a new properly positioned opening in your counter for a 30" slide-in. You have good space to the right of your 30" induction range. And open space above for a hood vent. Put a micro someplace else.
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wdccruise
last year
The Elica ENS436BL is a 36" induction cooktop with a downdraft hood. The Fisher Paykel CID364DTB4 differs in appearance and is $1K more.
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PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last year
IMO downdraft venting is really pretty useless and costs a lot .That cook top needs to go no matter what anyway. If you remove the wall ovens yes tyou will have a space but probably not a big enough space for a range so now it will require you to redo that wall . What is your budget ? IMO you open this can of worms plan on anew kitchen by the time you are done. Can you post pics of that whole wall please .
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April Zuffranieri
Original Author
last year

The doors to the right are the pantry. I had contemplated the previous responders idea of shifting cabinets around, and was wondering if it was possible to renovate just that back wall/island and leave the section with the sink and fridge alone
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PRO
User
last year
last modified: last year
Look at how those cabinets are built. The double door cabinet to the far left, and the one to it's right. Is there a seam there, between them, where two cabinets are joined together? Same for the wall cabinets. If there is a seam between the 2 double door cabinets, the wall oven could come out, the cabinet above come out, and 1 section of those cabinets slide down next to the pantry. Place the wall cabinet above the oven in between the two wall cabinets and hang a hood from it. Maybe. If you are DIY. There are very few contractors who would want to take on such a small but intense job. The labor costs would be too high for most homeowners to pay, so they'd rather just not even involve themselves in quoting it at all. Plus, you will need new counters for that run, and the island, at a minimum.
cpartist
last year
Show a 2D floor plan as it is now.
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PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last year
last modified: last year
I agree to give us a to scale floor plan and honestly I dislike walkin pantries so if going to the expense of redoing thta wall if possible I would add some true pullout pantries instead of the walkin. Yes you could do that wall but the trick will be to match the cabinets and the counter so you need a good designer to tie it all together .
dan1888
last year
last modified: last year
If the oven run is not composed of separate cabinets, you still have an option to slide the lower and upper units to the right and put a range on the left end. Replace the backsplash. Not as functional or aesthetically pleasing but doesn't require getting a fabricator to cut the counter. Except for the small right front hook. You'll need a top for the island no matter what.

Island cooktop fix

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April Zuffranieri
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Island cooktop fix

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April ZuffranieriOriginal Author

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