We have white oak kitchen cabinets with a very light stain. Our house was originally built with white oak floors, which we thought were red oak. We had to replace quite a few boards and we used red oak so now we have a red and white oak floor (definitely by accident). I'm with you on the white oak being nicer. Despite the efforts of our floor refinisher, the red oak still has a pinkish cast to it. In order to make the white and red oaks really blend, we would have had to go with darker stain on the floor, which we didn't want. Have you checked local cabinet makers for prices for white oak cabinets. We found that some could only get red oak and others could only get white oak. The guy who could only get white oak wasn't any more expensive than the guy who could only get red oak.

I agree with Johnson, another coat will not help darken the stain. It will only cause more headaches. What has happened here, is that the final sanding burnished the wood too much in some areas, closing up the pores. You can see the blotchiness. Water popping prevents issues like this, but it would make your color very dark. Try a 5:1 mix of natural and dark walnut. If, it is too yellow add a little gray. The best way to darken and even out the color is to redo the job . If, this is not an option. You can tint the poly with a little stain 20:1 poly/stain ratio, no less. Your finisher, will need to apply the finish as even as possible to avoid marks. Otherwise, it turns to crap and a redo will be necessary. This will be mainly dependent on the skill level of your finisher.

Another reason not to mix custom stains. It doesn't take much to make the incorrect mix. Samples are measured with spoons, then you have to figure out the ratio for the actual project. It becomes more difficult when you need to do touch ups or spot fixes, which will most likely result in a entire floor refinish. Make things easy for yourself and stick to standard colors.

It looks like you already have a medium stain (?Provincial?) on there so you are aware it will be lighter than any of the options you are looking at. Because you want to get away from 'red/orange' tones (as seen in your photo), I HIGHLY recommend you work with the Jacobean side of things. Just like in the make-up industry, floor stains use GREEN based stains to 'hide' or cover red tinges. Jacobean is green based. Jacobean is often used to create a mix of colour. The green base of Jacobean is used (50:50 or 25:75) to get rid of the red AND to darken a colour. This is normal. It is done all the time (by skilled refinishers). I'm not fond of Ebony. It can go down VERY dark (so dark it looks like black paint). Dark walnut might pull a bit to reddy-orange (browns are made up of reds and oranges and blues, etc). Be prepared to ask for a custom mix. And to stay away from orange all together you MUST WORK with a water based polyurethane. That means you MUST HAVE a coat of finish applied to the samples BEFORE you choose. This is normal. It is natural. It is 'industry standard'. Never, ever pick a stain colour without a coat of your finish (in your gloss level) over top. And make sure you view the stain patches through ALL 5 lighting situations. I like to see stain patches put down on Friday (with a coat of finish) and then the homeowners view it over the weekend. You tell the refinisher what you want on Saturday. The full staining process starts on Monday. That's the IDEAL way to do this.