Long arm questions
loisflan
last year
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msmeow
last yearloisflan
last yearlast modified: last yearRelated Discussions
Long arm hair
Comments (6)Here's a word from experience. I grew up with very long dense hair on my arms. As a young adult I naired them and my legs. Hair grew back very slowly and thin, no stubble. I only did my arms a couple of times but today I hardly have any hair on one arm and the other slightly hairy but so thin it's almost invisible. My legs are almost hairless also. I nair them once in a while but haven't done my arms again as I felt weird and abnormal with NO hair on my arms. Of course, no one noticed except me. I've heard that even pluckying hair it often doesn't grow back. My daughter used to severely pluck her eyebrows and today, she hardly has any left. Who needs electrolysis?...See MoreLong Arm Quilt Pattern Help
Comments (8)Denser quilting will make it stiffer, and will compress the loft of the batting. Warmer or cooler? I'm not sure it will make much of a difference. So a consideration is drapable and softer, or more decorative and stiffer. To keep it cooler, use a thin, cotton batting. To really show off the dimensionality of the quilting use a higher loft poly batting. My king-size quilt, used year round in Texas, has Quilter's Dream Machine Blend batting. It's 70/30 cotton/poly in a fairly low loft. I like the weight even in the summer, but it's not too, too hot. But I just did a quilt for my friend with Quilter's Dream Puff - very light-weight, but very lofty and warm batting. I loved how that quilt looked. It really showed off the quilting....See MoreLong-Arm Quilting
Comments (7)Long-arm quilter here - Do not baste, you will be loading the backing and top separately. the batting gets inserted between. Have your backing fabric at least 3 inches bigger on all four sides - a 50" by 70" quilt will require a minimum of 56 x 76 inches backing. More doesn't hurt - the bits trimmed off are useful for piecing later, but you absolutely need that room on the sides for the side clamps, and at top and bottom because the quilting draws up the fabric. You must square the backing fabric. The top and bottom and both side edges must all be squared to each other. I fold the backing in quarters, smoothing everything out and then square up the edges. Mark your top and bottom center on the backing. Then just enjoy yourself!...See MoreHelp with the quilting part of this quilt on my long arm....
Comments (8)Beautiful work as usual!!! Superior Threads has a new longarm thread called MicroQuilter #100 polyester for using when you don't want the thread or stitching to show, such as around applique, or in this case your gorgeous embroidery . It is easier to use then mono filament. You may have to adjust your tension. I suggest trying this new thread, stitching in the areas around the motifs that are flat - no seams. Be consistent in the stitching you add to the blocks and what little thread shows (if any) will look like part of the design - like adding a small circle or curve or straight line. 100# thread is very thin. Experiment with needle size. Lots of starts and stops. Stay away from the bulky seams. You risk getting your machine out of timing every time your needle sticks or breaks, or hangs up. Since your batting is already secure, you only need to add enough stitching to keep the backing attached evenly. Stitch in the Ditch is one of the harder elements to achieve on a longarm - not simple at all. You will not be able to use a ruler on bulky seam. This will be quick to do on the longarm. Make sure your backing is loaded straight and square, and you keep even tension on it to avoid tucks and pleats. I recommend floating the top to avoid rolling and crinkling it before quilting. Hope this is helpful....See Moremsmeow
last yearloisflan
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