"The problem is that the seams are very stiff thick (you can't press them open or to one side)."

I sometimes paint water on the stitching with a fine paint brush. It relaxes more than with steam alone.

tailor's clapper - http://www.sew-fashion-doll-clothes.com/seamroll.html
I have literally used a hammer when sewing denim seams. Don't recommend pounding on fine fabrics. ☺

A great pressing aid is half of a dowel rod that I put under a seam with the seam allowance up. When I press the iron on the fabric, with great force, there is no indentation because the iron only touches at the stitching at the top off the curve.
DH made three for me. He took a 3ft long, 1in diameter wooden dowel rod
and ripped it in half lengthwise. He cut the other half at 12" and 24".

I've not heard of a tailor's clapper before! I will give that a try. Thank you!!

First, I have to tell you that's one gorgeous quilt. The design, the colors and the lovely embroidery come together perfectly.

I don't have a longarm, so what I say may not make sense at all. I can see the corners of the blocks being very difficult to sew. Can you stitch along the edges and stop just the corners? You'll have to start and stop several times but you will avoid the build up in the corners.

Vasu

I think I would use the longarm to pin baste the layers together (or machine baste if you can avoid the seams) then use the sit-down machine for tying or tacking in the open spaces. Even if you get the seams to press open you still have the thickness of all that embroidery to deal with. And you don't want to risk ruining any of the embroidery by stitching through it after spending all that time and money on it!

If that doesn't hold the layers well enough you may have to hand tack the backing to the batting.

Donna

I'm no help on your quilting dilemma, just wanted to say your quilt is lovely...hope it all works out!

Beautiful work as usual!!!

Superior Threads has a new longarm thread called MicroQuilter #100 polyester for using when you don't want the thread or stitching to show, such as around applique, or in this case your gorgeous embroidery . It is easier to use then mono filament. You may have to adjust your tension. I suggest trying this new thread, stitching in the areas around the motifs that are flat - no seams. Be consistent in the stitching you add to the blocks and what little thread shows (if any) will look like part of the design - like adding a small circle or curve or straight line. 100# thread is very thin. Experiment with needle size. Lots of starts and stops. Stay away from the bulky seams. You risk getting your machine out of timing every time your needle sticks or breaks, or hangs up. Since your batting is already secure, you only need to add enough stitching to keep the backing attached evenly.

Stitch in the Ditch is one of the harder elements to achieve on a longarm - not simple at all. You will not be able to use a ruler on bulky seam.

This will be quick to do on the longarm. Make sure your backing is loaded straight and square, and you keep even tension on it to avoid tucks and pleats. I recommend floating the top to avoid rolling and crinkling it before quilting.

Hope this is helpful.

LOVE the quilt. Since the seams are so thick and stiff, perhaps a simple echo stitch around the embroidery with a simple design in the open areas that reflects the embroidery would work better.