OK let's first define Scalping because it has two different meanings based on context. 1. In early Spring should scalp our Bermuda and Zoysia to remove the dead straw colored grass from the previous season to promote early green up, remove some thatch, and a good way to control spring weeds. 2. Unfortunately every Bermuda and Zoysia owners will at some time scalp the lawn in the summer. I do not mean cutting it to the ground, I mean removing too much at one time leaving you with a brown lawn. The root cause is too long of a period between mowing. It happens to everyone with a Bermuda or Zoysia lawn. Something comes up like vacation or biz taking your time and you miss time to mow. It is normal. In Summer time, especially after a rain, Bermuda grows real fast. So fast you can almost see and hear it growing. OK to answer your question your Celebration Bermuda should be maintained as low as .5 inches and no more than 1.5 inches to keep it in peak condition. OK you have let it go beyond that, no problem just gradually take it down by not exceeding the 1/3 rule. That means mowing every other day lowering the height one click at a time until you get where you want The 1/3 rule does apply so chose your cutting height wisely. If maintained at .5 inch means mowing just about every day because Bermuda grass can grow .25 inch in a day. At 1 inch means about every other day, and 1.5 inch every 3 or 4 days. So keep that in mind and know what you are asking for.

Thank you everyone for all your advice and suggestions. I have read each and every one of your posts. thank you- First let me back this up by saying this: My cabinets were initially installed with a sprayed paint on them- a "Pittsburg" paint that my cabinet maker (yes he is old school!- fantastic builder and very nice to work with) had matched up to BM sImply White. Pittsburg is the paint he prefers to use over anything else b/c of it's commercial grade quality. We did not ask for a sample of how the actual color would look but we did however see what a sprayed cabinet looked like. Separately we saw what BM simply white looked like. I guess that's where the mistake was b/c even though it was color matched using a "formula" the cabinets casted a faint lime green tone. The kitchen looked like a "white kitchen" but when you held up real WHITE- you could see a huge difference. SO, without hesitation, our painter took our cabinets down and re primed and sprayed what he could and hand painted the other cabs which had the granite on it. Before he did the "2nd paint", he showed us the white we would be using and asked for approval. It looked white and much better than what was there, so we approved it for our cabinet builder to go ahead and re spray the cabs. Ok- 2nd install- cabinets go it, some look WHITE and others look really off. No consistency. NOT HAPPY!! That's when I wrote my first post on GW. SO, we had our cab guy here today and again, with a great attitude and willing to solve this "white" issue we are having, we decided to talk to the people at BM and do some more research and we are now testing BM Simply white in the ADVANCE. This came highly recommended by the BM people. Apparently the yellowing that you MIGHT see in an oil base is not for YEARS to come- and that's very slight. BUT the oil base paint is the best when it comes to preserving the cabinets from nicks and scratches and with white cabinets, you have to be very careful of that.So with all this being said, my husband and I just held up two painted SIMPLY WHITE BM boards. One on the corner upper and one next to it. BOTH the same white. The one on the curved cabinet is a different color than the one next to it- it has almost and icey bluish tint to it. NOW we think it may be the lighting. So, my husband just ran to Home Depot to get a different bulb for the ceiling light. We will try this before we have our cabinet guy take down everything and repaint!!! I just think white cabinets in our kitchen may just be very inconsistent. Go figure, we have a slew of big windows with natural light and a ton of high hats. this kitchen reno is just part of a huge reno on our house/ gutting and addition- that went smoooooth. The kitchen cabinet part is what's giving us a hard time. going on 5 months without a kitchen. UGH!

Well that certainly is West Texas. I lived in Plainview north of Lubbock for awhile and they referred to their location as West Texas. Okay... Despite what the promotional material says, I believe your grass is better adapted to the cooler temps and rich soil of the Panhandle than it is to the heat and rubble soil of El Paso. It will be interesting to see how much water it takes to keep it alive. As for getting it established, squishy seems like an awful lot of moisture. This seems to be the year of the rototiller. Where did you get that advice? Generally rototilling is not a good idea for grass. As the fluffed up soil forms a new structure, it will settle unevenly leaving you with a bumpy surface. Wait a full three years before you level it. It takes that long to form a structure. The tilled in compost adds a complexity factor to the way it ultimately will settle. That compost will "evaporate" completely leaving zero residual volume. Same for the peat moss. What I would have done to prep it would have been to ensure the drainage was good by scraping off surface soil, filling low spots, and then putting down the sod. I'm truly anxious to see how this goes. I can't remember anyone from Texas with Reveille turf writing in, so that must mean they don't have any problems with it.

Everything seemly is going well and your cool-season lawn is green and beautiful. Then you have a hot, humid night and the next day the grass shows some yellow patches. The day after, the yellow turns to brown. What’s going on? While seemingly overnight yellowing can be a symptom of a number of different lawn diseases, this particular culprit is most likely a lawn fungus called brown patch. Brown patch thrives when it is hot and humid, and can affect your lawn in late spring, summer, or early fall, depending on what type of cool-season grass you have, where you live, and recent weather conditions. Prolonged wetness from dew, rain, nighttime or evening watering, or poor drainage—or any other activity that keeps grass blades wet during weather in which temperatures are above 80 degrees F during the day and 65 degrees F at night—create ideal conditions for developing this serious fungal disease. In addition, grass that has been over-stimulated with nitrogen fertilizer just before or during hot, humid weather tends to be more susceptible to brown patch. You can try using a granular fungicide for brown patch. Normally this will cure more then 1 fungus. Try not to water at night or in the evenings. The best time to water is in the morning between like 6am and 10am Heres my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZWRXoXKb_2eE2mRYT95d6g check it out for any videos that may assists you in the future. I try and provide lawn care for people on a budget. Good Luck!