You should have enough space to have a tub and a shower, depending on the size of vanities, placement of doors, whether you need a toilet enclosure and where the existing plumbing is located. It may be tight, esp. if you want a decent sized shower. Moving the toilet is a PITA. The more plumbing you keep in its original spot, the cheaper it will be. For a quick and dirty (and free) mock up you can use the arrange-a-room tool at BHG. First you specify your room size (unfortunately, their minimum room size is 8 feet by 8 feet, so you'll have to specify a room size of 11 by 8 and ignore one foot of it). Then you pick from among a variety of plumbing fixtures (look in furniture and select bathroom. You'll find toilets, sinks, vanities, corner and regular showers and tubs, etc.). You can also add windows and doors (look in architectural items) You can rotate all of the fixtures, specify sizes, etc. by clicking on info once you drag the fixtures into the room. The program allows you to save, retrieve and print out up to 25 designs. Nothing too sophisticated, but it's easy and it does the trick. Here is a link that might be useful: arrange a room

Exactly what I was saying about old farmhouses and the back porch kitchen, LOL! I am looking at this house and thinking to myself.......1915? It could be, but it looks way older than that. It's the same style my house is, and mine has the 'ell' and my original kitchen is still where the back of the ell is. My house dates to 1820something. In my county, they used to put all old houses at an arbitrary date. They seemed to have stopped doing that and now just say old. Thanks for the link generic123. Yes, I know pretty closely where this house is located. Nice area, we have relatives who have a home nearby......my husband's old family farmhouse, but the farm is still intact! Beautiful home too, really beautiful!!!!! and it looks like the present owners have been very kind to it. I suspect there may be more fireplace stacks in this house, with the fireboxes covered over with wall. We have eight in our house. One for every major room. If it was actually built in 1915, maybe there wouldn't be, but there would have been furnace runs for a coal furnace or evidence at one time of steam heat or gas or coal grates in fireplaces in each room. I wonder how well a heat pump works in a house this size in Ohio? Or what the electric bill looks like? If you are at all serious about a residence, always look at utility bill histories. We finally got main gas through our rural area, and the first thing we did was get off electric heat and on to gas.

Hi! How exciting to get to the planning phase for your kitchen. We completed our kitchen remodel this time last year & although it is not open on one side it is a similar size with openings/wide doors to a sunroom on one side & dining room on the other. We worked with a kitchen designer since we were opening walls & moving plumbing & wanted to maximize our effectiveness. Her guidance about work triangles is that today's larger kitchens actually have more than one work triangle. Ultimately you have nice work space that multiple people can simultaneously work in. I think it is ok that your main sink is across the room from your refrigerator. You may consider placing the prep sink at the end of the island nearer the refrigerator for ease of access or you may consider putting an under- counter refrigerator to keep veggies for dishes you are working on or at times for easy access for drinks. Having the prep sink as near the other sink as you do may create a little bottle neck, plus you'll have access to water at both ends of the kitchen -- a thought. (It looks like you have plenty of space to move around -- KD recommends 42" if you can do it or scaling down to 39"-ish between counters.) Our KD recommended the trash pullout between the dining area & the dishwasher so that as the table is cleared anything to go into the trash is dropped there as the dishes are placed into the DW. She also recommended a breakfast center, so we have our coffee pot near the drawers with cereal and coffee. If you use your toaster oven for breakfast it can also go there. I would consider to the right or left of refrigerator depending on how comfortable you feel (or perhaps you plan to keep the cereal in that wonderful walk-in pantry). Then when you want the toaster off the counter you can lower into a drawer or into the pantry. You also probably want a drawer for all your plastic containers. Our KD suggests to have that drawer at a place near the fridge & where you will walk from the breakfast/dining room with leftovers, fill the containers, & place immediately into the fridge with minimum steps. I appreciate you wanting to have an above or under counter shelf for the microwave. If you want it under the counter I'd consider to the right of the refrigerator -- it seems like I am always pulling things out of the fridge or freezer & popping into the microwave. This way you won't be carrying it far. Otherwise the other end of your island could work. I recommend you consider (or at least look at) the Sharpe Microwave Drawer. It is wonderful! I can stir or test temperature without having to get on my knees to look into the Microwave or pull the dish out onto the counter. It is a built in. How much do you use the door going to the outside? Your microwave & plastic containers can go there or your breakfast area. I guess it depends on the time of day that door gets used the most. Otherwise you can place items that seldom get used, but you want easy access to. I agree with kmennenga about the desk. Perhaps put it on the wall near the pantry. You can have a hutch-style or desk. Have drawers for hanging files so you can manage your papers. This was something we didn't have room for. We converted the lower desk space in our old kitchen to a butler's-pantry style area & have one large drawer for hanging files, as well another drawer with a writing surface (under the writing surface is space for place mats or entertaining supplies -- cocktail napkins, small dishes, small-ish cheese trays & spreaders). Also lots of electrical outlets to plug in laptops & cell phones can be placed along side the light rail(or also in the island). I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

Resummarizing here because it wont let me edit my main thread, with photos.. plywood is often used for observatory builds because its a smoother surface to seal off, i assumed it was ok.. Summarizing again: I've tried using some online deck building tools to generate the materials needed for what should really be a simple build for this, but i'm getting weird results and had some questions. I thought home depot had an online one, but only found an offline tool, lowes online did work, but in both cases they generated ridiculous materials lists and prices close to $10k. I know that a build like this should only cost $300 to $400. (with everything i have below and $69 to ship, its around $480 as of now, so higher than planned) On top of the deck will be the nexdome with 2 bay (astronomy plastic dome weighs around 300lbs i think). The first issue is the soil/ground. I have to make things level, so that i dont need extra height on a concrete pier, to keep the whole structure say 12" off the ground and not need a railing. Here is a shot of my ground so far, i wasnt sure if i should just get a bobcat and push it forward till level, or if tossing the extra dirt that is "high" on the upper part, to the lower part would suffice or cause a settling issue later? Either way, once down to level, i figure ill either just leave it as just dirt under, or put down plastic to block weeds and cover with a thin layer of gravel. Back to the deck build itself: 12x6 vs 12x8: I've seen many do the 12x6 route, but I wasnt sure, so for now i have it figured as roughly 12-13 12x8s? I have two 4x4x8's figured, but i'm thinking there will be at least 6 posts, with the deck surface at least 12" off ground, may need a few more to go into cement block Onto the blocks (going with blocks instead of posts in the ground, so when we move, we can just take the whole thing and go, or disassemble): I think these are the right concrete deck blocks? But now that i'm thinking about these, it looks like they are really meant to go under the 12x6 going longwise? So perhaps for the posts that will be 12-14" tall, i need something else here? (I figured 6-9 of these max) One of the online builder tools generated the list using these wood to wood triple zinc framing angles, again i'm not sure these are needed? I know i need joist hangers, unsure on the quantity, but these 2"x2x18 gauge triple zinc face mount joist hangers **the part on these i'm unsure on, is since this is low to the ground, how ill go about attaching these,since the floor needs in place, so i guess i need to tilt the whole structure to do this Many regular decking forums dont suggest using plywood for the floor, but i've seen many nexdome floors done with it, i was assuming it was this plywood: Severe Weather 3/4 inch common square southern yellow pine sheathing 4x8's $39? I was estimating i need 3 of these. Then I was figuring using all deck screws and not nails (in case i need to remove them), or maybe nails (which type?) for the hangers. These #8 2" ceramic I thought were the right ones? (or maybe 2.5") Here is the view of the joists as generated by the home depot offline tool, generally i was figuring a joist every 16, not sure about the extra ones near the pier location: Another question is on the underside, in the one online generator it shows these things that i'm not sure on, ie: the posts have those brackets and there are i think the right angle brackets: The other part i think i'm missing here are "toggle?" bolts that go into the posts? With nuts on the other side of some size? Any thoughts on all this so far, is this a pretty accurate list of things to do this simple deck?