What is the easiest way to sand this kind of wood paneling?
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
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what kind of fence is easiest and cheapest
Comments (12)First off, why is barbed wire out,..... The cheapest, most durable fence by far is a strand wire fence like barbed wire, and is also the least labour intensive to put up. 2 strand, 16 guage, barbed wire will last 40 years on treated posts, and at that point in time, the wire, the most expensive part, will be hard, brittle and difficult to work, but still good for another 20 years. Single strand barbed wire won't last as long and can be broken by cattle. Here we use 4 strand wire fences, with 12 inches between strands, 15 to 20 feet between posts, corners braced and tied, stringers every 5 feet to keep the strands supported in the middle, with corner gates constructed of short strands of wire, 4 supporting posts and a simple tensioning latch. This allows neighbors on all sides to recover animals or you to easily move stuff through the property. The horse people here, use 4 strand barbed wire to border their property, ( keeps cattle out, allows wild animals through) with 4 strand 14 guage galvanised solid wire for the cross fences. Sometimes the Horse people use 3 strands of 14 guage galvanised solid wire with a single strand of barbed on top for perimeter fencing. A key element, legally and for impact is to post the property in convention with local traditions. In many areas of the US, a paint blaze, like a orange square, painted on posts, trees and rocks, serves as legal notice that the property is posted, trespassers will be prosecuted, access, hunting and fishing is only with prior permission of the landowner. In other areas, the signage needs to be in plain english, and prominent with certain coverage required. Here, we are required to post on each corner, and midway along the fence, for every quarter section, for a total of 12 signs per full section, (160 acres)....See MoreEasiest/Best way to remove pups?
Comments (12)I've been thinking about this one all day. What you want to do doesn't have an easy answer, so the task won't be simple either. When I deliver large spiny cycads to people, I tie up the leaves so they are more upright. You may need someone else to help, but you may need to tie them up. I am known for always trying something new and have made a sleeve to tie up cycads for delivery so I don't get stuck bad. If you had some thick cloth, or better yet, burlap, if you loosely surrounded the stem and tied the top and bottom of the burlap, you could make a sleeve. You might need a second person but with this sleeve, the two of you could lift it up and it would hold all the leaves in an upright position. then untie it when you are finished....See MoreEasiest way to remove carpet tack strips
Comments (15)florida wen....I wish to god I had followed your idea before pulling up my tack strips. I did it without thinking there was another way in two 10 by 12 foot rooms. Now I have probably over a hundred 1 to 2 inch craters I can't find a reasonable way to fill. I had the idea like yours to use a grinder to wear the nails down flush, but it came to me 3 days after I had already done the damage. Now, I can't get accurate information on how to patch these craters with something I can stain afterwards. Will the vinyl concrete patcher that is available from Quikrete take the stain reasonably well? AnyBody know? Or, should I use a concrete bonder (spread on with a brush)(I think also available from Quikrete) and then spread concrete into the hole and level off with a trowel? Then It would be concrete, so it would at least accept the stain. But I don't really know that this "bonder" stuff will really work. (I'm aware there will no doubt be substantial color differentation, but that is OK with me as long as it takes at least some color) I can't find accurate information on the web from someone who has done this. Meaning: patch the craters with something that will stick and is stainable. I've patched concrete holes before with just a mix of concrete and they don't stay down. That floorguy's comments are just worthless. Patching it without some bonder or binder, just doesn't work. They come back up or flake off. I need a method that will stay down and take a reasonable stain, so I can make a finished floor. Please help me, anyone out there who has gone through this. I would love to be able to go back in time and redo it with the grinding down method. It would save what seems like years and a lot of worry and uncertainty....See MorePainting stained trim -- Quickest, easiest way to prep?
Comments (3)You say you don't want to regret any missed steps yet you don't want to sand. Cleanliness and a dull substrate are mandatory. Why waste your energy on a sub par preparation? Wash the trim with Dirtex or ammonia and water. Sand dull with #180 aluminum oxide paper. Vacuum and wipe clean. Prime with Bulls Eye 1 2 3 or Fresh Start by BM After primer is dry, caulk all gaps and joints and wipe with damp cloth to smooth and press in to place. Allow caulk to dry at least 4 hours. Topcoat with 2 coats of quality acrylic paint. Michael...See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
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