Daily weather has been strange - somewhat mild winter, lots of wind, then hot February and March with more wind and a couple of hard freezes in late April. That double whammy hurt the majority of the fruit trees and a large number of shade trees. The trees looks so strange as they struggle to rebud and leaf out. We are continuing in a severe drought so everything except the weeds are almost nonexistent. There are so many trees, some 50 years and older, that have not survived. It's sad for trees to die off, especially ones of that age and size. We can't just stick them in the ground and they grow as they do in many areas, we have to baby them for several years to get them established. I did have DH plow up the garden area. I have tomatoes and peppers in the greenhouse that need to be planted, but I'm not sure that things will do much at all, even with extensive watering - darn it. Probably should have just started greenhouse varieties, but that's no fun. The Sweet Autumn Clematis and the Malva Zebrina are the only two plants that are doing well outside. But - and yes I am going to shout - WE HAVE SOME CHANCE OF SHOWERS FOR THE NEXT 7 DAYS! Send your good thoughts and prayers this way, please. Everyone can post pictures of yards and anything else that is growing nicely and I will live vicariously through them...LOL. While I may complain about the drought, my thoughts and prayers are with the people of Oklahoma. It is almost beyond comprehension that deadly storms hit the same area two days in a row and then hit on another day just a few miles from them. Unexplainable.

My vegetable garden is scattered with all types of shallots. Last year I grew from seed direct sown (Johnny's F1 hybrid Picador and Saffron), and they did okay, probably half the size they should have been and probably would have done better with better conditions. One bulb grows for each seed planted. The shallots I grew from seed kept amazingly well for about six months. I don't think true shallots go to seed. Johnny's is all F1 hybrid seed. I will probably never sow shallot seed again once I use or give away the rest of the seeds I have. This year I put seed grown bulbs back in the ground to see what happens for vegetative reproduction along with 'true' shallot types like french grey and red shallots. And I'm taking advice that they are effective garden companions to repel unwanted animals and insects, so they get to live with strawberries, spinach, etc.

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"

Sure, it's usable, but how much impact it will have on your plants is another question. This is very hard to gauge on LED lights, which is why I generally avoid them. Here is the product I use: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-100W-Equivalent-Daylight-Deluxe-T2-Twister-CFL-Light-Bulb-4-Pack-E-433557/204855102 It screws right into a regular desk lamp. A good testing time for lights is 12 hours on, 12 off. After that, you can adjust on what you feel your plants need.