Currently I live in a double-wide mobile home, not on a foundation but positioned on blocks - so there is a crawl space about 3 feet high under the entire house. I've been thinking about, when I do an outdoor system, of either partly burying the reservoir, or, putting a door in the crawl space covering for easy access to the reservoir under there. Why? Because every time I take off a panel and get back in there a little bit, even here in FL it feels like the cool air from my parent's basement in PA. Therefore yes, a crawl space and/or underground would be a great place to get air or cool air down before letting it naturally flow into your greenhouse. I would imagine that with the notable temperature differences between the greenhouse roof and extra-cool air coming in below, that air flow would be much faster. I really want to get a book and read about greenhouses, especially FL greenhouses. And yes I suppose that a metal tube would cool the air faster than a plastic tube would... seems it would anyways.

Answering for Bmorepanic, It was a long, sad saga spanning several threads with the most recent thread linked below. Basically, NXR warranty service turned out to be capable of as much ineptitude and idiocy as you hear reported in the worst tales about other makers. The vendor, Plessers, bought back her NXR and bmore just bought a Dacor AG range instead. My personal opinion about this is that most NXRs are good stoves (and mine certainly has been) but, because of what happened to bmore, I would only consider buying another one from a vendor who has the kind of extended full-satisfaction, no-questions, full-refund return policy that Costco does. . Here is a link that might be useful: Hard to believe - August and the Nxr blueschips This post was edited by JWVideo on Fri, Nov 29, 13 at 15:10

I was raised on a farm that did not get electricity until 1947, therefore, we and our neighbors had to use alternate heat. We used coal or wood burners installed in the main living space. A wood burning cook stove was in the kitchen. On very cold days, both stoves were fired and on milder days, only the main stove was used. That kept one room very warm and the adjoining rooms above freezing. Someone above asked what about overnight. We did what was called "banking the fire". An hour before retiring, the stove would be loaded with fuel and the fuel allowed to become fully ignited and then the flue pipe damper was set to slow the draft up the chimney and the air inlets on the stove would be reduced to low air inlets. A properly "banked" stove will burn almost all night and by morning there will still be a healthy bed of coals. By morning, the house will have cooled; Its the job of the first person up to revive the fire. That's how it was done. Old houses with "modern" heating plants were in luck. Those old furnaces did not have forced air but depended on gravity and difference in density of heated air to curculate heated air throughout the house. No electricity was required, although some had automatice fire-box feeders that did need elecric power, however, most of these did have a manual feed feature. Those old furnaces were 'lovingly' referred to as "octopuses" describing the huge amount of ductwork in the basement. Gravity driven air ducts require large ducts possibly with 3 times the cross-section of forced-air installations, but those work without power. Were these efficent? Nah - a lot heat went up the chimney. Many of those old house designs did not have any water piping to the second floor. Water was restricted to a pitcher pump at the kitchen sink - no electricity needed. This pump could not raise water much more than 20 to 25 ft (by suction); It drew water from a rain filled cystern. On very cold nights, the pump was 'un-primed" allowing the water to drain back before going to bed. The only water was in the sink trap if you had one. The next morning, after the stoves were re-fired with room temperature rising, the pump could be primed to provide a fresh supply of water. In the winter, one should not leave the house for an extended time without first draining the pump and connecting pipe. How soon we forget about the life of yesteryear. It takes only one generation to move on to the modern house with plumbing on all floors, a house that is dependent on reliable electrric power, and to forget how to survive without power for a few days. Today's house design makes that very difficult.

I am starting to worry about the slope of the deck near the house. It slopes toward the house, but we did not install drains there. We put a drain in a low spot in front of the existing patio. Builder said that would be the proper thing to do. I am looking at the deck that slopes toward the flower bed along side the back of the house. The lot slopes gently toward the deep end of the pool. Thoughts?