Thanks Thusie; Repairclinic was one of my first ventures...I pored over their 481 (to be exact) igniter styles and found no BlueStar matches.....Before I write them off, I will call them...as you say, they are known to be phone-responsive..... Thull....I tried the penetrating oil...problem is, the flange on the igniter is covering the screw's hole entirely, and the whole unit is torqued down, dis-allowing any penetrating oil to even get to the threads.....Upon examining the snapped screw, I can see the screw body has "become one" with the cast iron...don't think oil can even get in there...Another problem arises in the fact that it is a blind hole....(only access to one side of the hole) Since I now know I need at least three igniters, I'm going to heat the screw with a small torch...this seems to be the most efficient way I've found... Thanks for all the input here...I'm not giving up yet....even looked into repairing/reglazing the hairline cracks....(was told to try this from one of the many igniter dealers I talked to)

Here I am again, for those of you who might still be interested: Yesterday morning, at 7:20AM, the service contractors came back to fix the problem I had with my simmer burner. It is one month since I first called Bluestar about the problem. They agreed to do the repair even though it was more than a year since I had purchased and installed my range. They called back promptly, answered all my questions and sent the service company out without delay. When the first team couldn't correct the problem another part was ordered and in a few weeks I was called to make an appointment. I was offered an earlier appointment but I wasn't going to be available for that time so another time/date was offered, which was yesterday morning at 8. I was called to confirm on Friday afternoon, and called yesterday at 7:15 to be warned that the men would be at my house in 5 minutes. The team included one guy who had come the first time around and another, who said he was the service supervisor. I didn't hover this time around, (it was before my first cup of coffee.) But I know they changed the ceramic igniter, opened and made some adjustment under the front panel, switched positions of the 2 rear burners (my request for which I agreed to pay $75), switched the gas nozzles (I know that is not the right term but its all I can think of calling those right now) so that the BTUs were correct for the switched burners, and adjusted all the flames. The stove is working like a charm. There's no more clicking, the simmer burner simmers and all the burners have a full flame range. They also tightened one of the knobs, that has recently begun to slip off. It is all good. I now have the pro-style range I have always wanted, and just in time for a houseful on Thanksgiving (20+ family and friends). There will be 2 turkeys, all the usual sides, more pies and cakes than we can possibly eat and some decent wine and beer to wash it all down. Hurrah! Thanks for listening. I am quite satisfied with the response I got from the people at Bluestar and the local service company.

Do you think the viking microwave/convection with recirculating fan will be sufficient? Our appliance dealer has said it'll be fine if it's mounted at 21" instead of 18. I do have a window fan next to the range that blows outside. I am re-doing a galley kitchen and have chose the exact same appliances as you, except for the hood, but have not purchased them yet. Tomorrow is supposed to be stove choice day, so I hope you see this and can respond!

Hi Chris, First, I would not recommend you attempt to permanently affix the probe through the back-guard where the range vents from. You are only asking for bigger problems if you were to try that. I am curious, what is your reason for wanting to do this? If your oven is WAY off from the temperature you set it for on the control knob, you may just need to calibrate the thermostat oven knob. This is a relatively easy adjustment and will give you a more permanent fix than having an ugly wire hanging out the oven door. To be completely honest, external temperature probes to be a bit of a waste. I see many people use them and it makes them think something is wrong with their oven. The difference in temperature throughout the entire oven cavity makes these probes wildly unreliable. Lastly, you should be aware that the temperature you set the oven for and the actual temperature in the oven will never match up. Most people assume if they set the oven for 400 degrees, the oven is 400 degrees. In fact, the standard temp. range when setting an oven for 400 degrees is between 380 - 420 degrees. The idea is that it 'averages' to 400 - and this is true of all ovens throughout all time. Once the oven hits 400, the thermostat in the oven turns off the gas flame, but there is still residual heating which makes it creep up 15-20 degrees. As the oven falls below the 400 mark, the thermostat turns the gas flame back on; but it takes a little while for the flames to bring the temp back on which is why it can get to 380 before it rises again. Feel free to let me know what issue you might be having as I am happy to give further input here.