I'm no expert, so these are just tips:) Changing the soil can be stressful on the plant. If you are removing it from the ground, use at least some of the natural soil. "Miracle Grow" is a neat benefit now problem later sort of product. Some of the nutrients are fantastic, but some varieties of soils and foods contains hormones that encourage fast growth which only cause weakness later. I like to get a simple B complex and regular compost (I use my horses for that), peat moss, and perlite. None of this means the soil is your problem, to that question I honestly don't know the answer. When taking shoots, get as much root as possible. But, not all plants can survive this process. I took 2 shoots from 4 varieties, all were ones I was told could handle being transplanted as root shoots, and only one did well. How about that? I have been told to get 12 inches or more of root. So, be prepared to get down, dig slowly and carefully, and for it to take a while:) If you get enough root even if the parent plant dies off the roots will send you more shoots in the near future. One of the shoots I took that made it is now 5 lil trees. I will soon have to decide which one to keep and which ones to pluck! Finally, choose the smallest shoots. The roots you get will be more likely able to support and feed/water a small plant during the critical first few months after transplant. You can also try taking cuttings. That is, take the shoot and leave the roots. If the shoot has grown this year it will be comprised of nice green wood. Remove all but the top one or two leaves, cut the wood just at the lowest node (leave the node intact) and set the stem in water. I leave them in water for 48-72 hours before starting the next step. But you can skip the water step all together, it's a matter or preference and method. Injure the end of the stem lightly by taking just a shaving of bark off one side. Then dip the stem into a rooting hormone compound like Rootone. Plant the stem in a light weight soil. I use 33/33/33 mix of perlite, peat moss, and sand. But 50/50 perlite and peat moss is a good mix too. Wet the soil before adding the stem, and cover the plant in plastic. I like to take 10 stems from one plant, trim them, do the water phase, dip them in rooting hormone, then plant them in one large pot. I then put a plastic jug from my kid's apple juice over the pot to work as a mini green house. The point is too keep the plant moist but not soggy so it stays wet but doesn't mold. Also, keep them indoors until they are well established. Extreme heat will just plain dry them out. I'm sorry I didn't answer your second question, I just don't know the answer:) Hope the rest of this helps!

Mine did the same thing, but never even budded out much this spring. Never leafed out, the tiny buds died, and I shovel pruned it a few days later because I could snap branches with my thumb. I would replace it since you are still under warranty.

We bought the house in 2013 and the tree looked a lot better. It is near the property line in a seasonal wet area which receives at least 1 underground stream, and the runoff from 2 underground pipes we think are connected to our rain gutters. Our downhill neighbor moved in the winter before us and was getting water in his basement. He had loads of fill dirt spread on his side up to about 3' from the tree. Now water ponds around the tree from snow melt to the end of our rainy season, about August. Can't say water ponded there before we moved in. Here are a couple more photos I got today between thunderstorms to show the lay of the land. We can't mow the area marked by the orange flags until it dries out. Nearly got he riding mower stuck the first spring. Been planting things that like bogs to try to use up the water. The house in this photo is our neighbor. We do have a disease resistant sycamore planted where the underground stream seeps to the surface at the edge of the tall grass in the upper photo. It was free from the Master Gardeners last spring. It's about a foot tall and has 4 leaves, made it through the winter. The neighbor took fallen branches and tried to start more trees on his side last spring, didn't work.

If the roots have circled it is probably doomed. Perhaps someone from the Bonsai area can suggest something because I only know enough to be dangerous. From my reading root pruning normally starts in the second year of growth when the roots are small. The top growth and the root structure needs to be in balance. If the roots are woody at this age cutting too much off will probably kill the tree but you could try removing the ends of the roots a little at a time along with some top growth. Much will depend on the type of oak you have selected as some are more sensitive than others. The Health Forum is generally for things like pulled muscles or nagging health issues.