where are you... [or did i miss that?] and do you want conifers.. or not.. if so.. try also in the conifer forum ... cypress are conifers ... i like the vines for fast relief.. while your trees/conifers.. take time to grow to height ... a pic of the space will probably get you the best suggestions .... but odds are.. your kids going to be about 10 .. by the time anything grows tall enough to be of use ... and i dont really understand.. if he doesnt care if he walks around butt naked.. why you are planting trees for the neighbors ... lol... just duct tape his diaper on.. and challenge him./her to get out of it ... lol ... stay at home dad here.. i remember these days ... now they are 11 and 15 ... and the neighbors are hiding from them.. lol ... good luck.. and have fun with him/her .. in the garden ... the time is so precious ... i used to have to hose the oldest down.. every afternoon.. after 4 or 5 hours in the yard ... ken

"Papers published in refereed Scientific Journals: 70+ Technical articles in assorted Journals and Technical publications: 330+ Technical papers presented at Professional Meetings: 400+ Patents granted: 20 USA, numerous foreign patents. Professional organizations: American Society for Horticultural Sciences, Â International Plant Propagators Society (President Southern Region, 1989), Â International Society of Arboriculture, Â American Society of Agronomy, Â Weed Science Society of America, Â Ecological Society of America, Â Southern NurserymenÂs Association, ÂOklahoma Nursery and Landscape Association, Â American Nursery and Landscape Association, Â Texas Nursery and Landscape Association. Awards: 1977, Henegar Aware given by the Southern NurserymenÂs Assoc. for excellence in research. 1983, Chadwick Award, presented by the American Association of Nurserymen, "To an exceptional educator for superior teaching, guidance and motivation of students in the nursery and landscape arts and sciences". 1985, Outstanding Oklahoma Nurseryman. 1986, Wight Memorial Award given by the Southern NurserymenÂs Assoc. for Outstanding Contributions to the Nursery Industry. 1987, Outstanding Industry Person Award, by the Florida Nursery Assoc. 1988, Award of Merit from the Garden Writers Assoc. of America. 1993, named Fellow of the International Plant Propagators society. 1999, Meadows Award given by the International Plant Propagators Society" Here is a link that might be useful: bio.pdf

Depends on the architecture of the house. Geometric facade with a uniform design all the way across = formal planting, at least in that part of the garden. Otherwise, no, you don't want matching pairs etc. as they won't match the house - apart from the problem of trying to get and keep sets of living plants identical to one another (see below). When successful the typical non-dwarf type of Italian cypress produces a tall tree, too big for foundation planting of all but the largest of dwellings. If yours are leaning over they may be root-bound, this is a too frequent problem resulting from nothing being done to prevent it in container-grown plant production facilities. Since this is so prevalent all you can do about it is either only buy bare-rooted deciduous stock and herbaceous plants or pull roots open at planting time. Rather often there are tight knots of roots right at the bases of the trunks, in which case the specimens are more or less hopeless. These can act as fulcrums upon which the incompletely anchored, doomed trees or shrubs pivot over perhaps many years after planting in their final positions (resting places, in these instances), once the tops get big and heavy enough. 2. SKIP THE FORMALITY Not all formal effects create work; crisp areas of paving, simple water features, decorative walls, sheets of neat groundcovers are about as carefree as anything. But tightly sheared hedges, topiary shrubs, long soldier courses of identically shaped trees demand regular attention. Also, when any of your matching plant sculptures dies, it may be impossible to replace. A garden in a softer, more natural style will forgive lapses in maintenance Here is a link that might be useful: The Easy Garden This post was edited by bboy on Fri, Mar 7, 14 at 12:23

Hello everyone. Yes, some types of Spider Mites make webs. You can tell if you have Mites bad because the branches will fall away from the rest of the plant. Most people blame this on "BIG WINDS" but the mites weaken the layer just under the bark on the outside and thatÂs why they "lean" out. If this is the case cut them down lower and spray the trees with high pressure water hose (not a pressure sprayer) use a small hole hose end and this will do fine. Spray the whole tree all around and top to bottom for 2 days. Let them dry and get a sprayer and some mite spray. Ortho used to make a product called "Isotox" but now I think they re-named it so ask at a garden center. Italian Cypress are very bad about mites, this because they always seem to have the smallest water wells or some people have a drip system and don't give them enough water. They get heat stressed easy and this allows the mites to get ahead of the tree. I have seen people with drips use a 4gal/ per minute end and only give them 15 min. 1 gal. of water!! And this is on a tree that is 3'+ around! When you planted them did you breakup the root ball a little? If not this could be a problem. People buy the tallest cypress and these are sometimes root bound. So this could be it. Also root balls that are tight will not allow the water to go through them because the outside dirt is broken up and water will just go around them. If this sounds like the problem take a shovel push it into the ground at the outside of the ball and in about 1" in 4-5 spots around the trees ball and about a foot deep if you used 5 gal. plants. and give it a back and forth movement to try to loosen it up then put garden mix in the holes and stamp down light. WATER every 5 days for 2-3 weeks in poor sandy soil or 10 days in better soil. Water them good in heat and back off in cool. Remember these trees want water not soaked all the time but people think just because itÂs topped at say 12' itÂs not a big tree. Even if you do not top yours make sure they have enough water. You will also keep the mite problems down. Spray them off in spring and 3-4 times in the summer and they will love you for it!