Horticultural oil not working on aphids
Heruga (7a Northern NJ)
13 days ago
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peren.all Zone 5a Ontario Canada
13 days agolast modified: 13 days agogetgoing100_7b_nj
13 days agoRelated Discussions
Horticultural Oil & beneficial insects
Comments (8)kquat, Horticultural oil is the broad term to include oils that are sprayed on plants and trees no matter what time of year it's used. There is a difference in the sprays that are used after the bud begins to emerge in the spring and the oil sprays that are used when a tree goes dormant. The insect has to be covered with the oil to do any good, and the oil does not remain on the tree as a protectant. I believe that a label would precaution using an oil on a tree if freezing temperatures are a possibilty. You know not to spray oil on your trees if the temperatures will get to 80 degrees F. I mixed canola oil with water and soap on some trees (including citrus)and even though it was in the cool of the morning, the temperatures went up and one of my citrus ended up loosing all its leaves. I only sprayed the one that had Cottony Cushion scale on it. The leaves grew back and the tree was prettier than ever. Maybe I should do that to all my trees -- think? At least the Leafminers would take off. Neem oil is not the same at all. Brass...See MoreHorticultural oil, Bt, or FE to control leafroller caterpillar?
Comments (3)tantanman, Thank you so much for your post and insight regarding your use of Bt (I'm assuming the 'K' strain bacillus) on orange dog caterpillars. Fortunately and as far as I'm aware, we here in the Bay Area aren't as affected with citrus leaf miners as our poor friends in SoCal/San Diego who must rely on harsher systemic insecticides like Imidacloprid. So, I should be able to use Bt on my species of leafrollers with similar positive results as you. Shortly/immediately after my initial post (and since no useful remedies were offered here), I went to my local nursery and did indeed purchase (among other things) some Bt(k), and had/have every intention of using during the growing season. However, I was still concerned that multiple applications of BT might need to be administered (as you confirm above) for full control. I wanted to knock out ALL current eating caterpillars. What I also purchased at the garden center was horticultural oil (HO) and Neem oil. Neem oil, I'd read, acts as a powerful anti-feedant and synthetic hormone that disrupts insects' metamorphic life cycle (so that they can't progress to the next stage). HO, in addition to smothering insects (so that they in essence can't breathe) like scales, mites, etc., also targets caterpillar eggs (so I'd read!). Perfect, I thought, but not knowing what to apply first (Neem or HO), I applied both - first the Neem, followed by the HO the next day (late afternoon) after the Need had dried. Well it's been a week, and I'm happy to report that not only have the scales on my one potted Meyer almost fully dried out, but I don't see any evidence of caterpillars (I just checked!) on any of the three in-ground Meyers or Trovita! For safe measure, I'm going to re-apply the Neem again today, since I've read it breaks down fairly quickly from the sun's UV rays. Hereafter, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I could certainly commence with using Bt on a periodic basis come the growing season; however, as I alluded above, there are many on this forum who have used FE to control other insects (though I don't recall seeing any mention of its use on caterpillars). There's anecdotal evidence that it may act similar to HO by the oil smothering insects. So, I may (instead of using Bt in Spring) just do the experiment and try the weekly applications of FE and see what happens (plus, I'm really curious what the answer will be!). Also, I kinda like the added benefit that FE has as a foliar fertilizer... If I end up using FE, I'll post an update on its effects on caterpillars at some point in the future (and whether or not I had to rely on Bt after all!). Tim...See MoreAny recommendations on horticultural oils?
Comments (15)How about if we emphasize the phrase, " as a rule of thumb" and apply it to this? Because we all know that people who are healthy and have a good immune system DO get sick....ALL of the time! But, as a rule of thumb, we all know that it is wise to be as healthy as we can and to build up and protect our immune systems. Some diseases can be avoided that way, but by no means can all be. This also applies to our plants. If we do all that we can do to provide our plants with a good above and below ground environment so that physical stress is not a daily routine, they are much more able to tolerate the usual pressure of this pathogen and that insect pest. It is also one hundred percent true that SOME pests are designed to take advantage of plants under stress. One example would be phytophthora, a ubiquitous root rot disease that probably won't become a problem unless a SUSCEPTIBLE plant is growing in poorly drained soils. Pine borers also come to mind, which will move into acres of stressed pine trees a year or two after a hurricane or flood. However, there are simply some plant pests out there that can and will infest perfectly healthy plants. Those are the plants that will be best able to recover, by the way. There are also plants with known genetic predispositions to certain disease and insect pests. We can't do anything about that, except avoid their use in sensitive locations. So, our oath should be to 1) do all we can to keep our plants healthy (and this largely means take care of the SOIL), 2) select plants that are suitable to the specific site 3) avoid plants with known susceptibilities and weaknesses. Look for resistant cultivars, when possible. The solution to keeping the pesky critters under control is multi-faceted and multi-dimensional. Sort of like a 3-D puzzle. It's terrific when we can make it work, and believe it or not, it's based on some very simple concepts, all of which have been put in place eons ago by Mother Nature! We measly humans just can't seem to put the pieces all together sometimes, lol!...See MoreHorticultural/insecticide oils
Comments (11)The bottle states it can be used in greenhouses as well as outdoor/indoor plants. The main ingredient is mineral oil. Trust me, I'm very cautious with products as I have a child and 2 dogs in the house. My husband also works for Bayer in the Environmental Science division (I used too as well, that's how we met - more info than needed, lol) and knows about all the Bayer Advanced items. He looked at the stuff and while it only states mineral oil and nothing else, he said just make sure not to touch it until it dries. He said oil is used to smother/suffocate pests. He's always skeptical of organic products as to their efficacy. I always wear gloves when working with all my plants (my citrus trees make me itchy). I'll just make sure to spray this stuff when I'm the only one home. Not sure if this stuff even works although I did buy it at a nursery store. Thanks for the concern as it made me look at the label a lot closer. it does make the leaves look nice :-)...See MoreHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
13 days agocecily 7A
13 days agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
13 days agoHeruga (7a Northern NJ)
13 days agoSeniorBalloon
12 days agokidhorn2
12 days agoSeniorBalloon
12 days agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
7 days agoSeniorBalloon
7 days agorusty_blackhaw
6 days agolast modified: 6 days ago
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