Install, sand and finish prices are regional and the job site conditions can also cause variation in pricing. In our area our average install price for a wide plank floor would be around $3.50 s.f. Yes you can get it done cheaper but wide plank flooring requires more labor and materials than the average strip floor. I would glue and blind nail this flooring and special attention to job conditions is very important. It could also be face nailed but I like blind nailing. For soft pine there are many finishing methods. My favorite is Waterlox tung oil. You can add stain to the sealer or go natural. The last price we charged for sanding and finishing a stained wide plank pine floor with Waterlox was $3.95 s.f. It requires 4-coats. Your total cost would be around $9.50, not bad for a beautiful wood floor. Checkout their website. www.waterlox.com

ahhh, thank you guys so much! I appreciate all the sweet comments. Anyone that recognizes my name knows that this house is our pride and joy (as humble as it is) and we plan on staying here a very long time. We are trying to do things "right"...even if it takes longer to do them. I know there is a lot of disdain for the "weekend warrior" DIY-er...we know plenty of those types. My DH prides himself in the fact that he can build a house from the ground up...electrical, plumbing, floors, roofs, etc. Of course, because he can do all of that, he is not "specialized" in one area. Usually, he knows his limitations. He has said to me many times, ""Wow, I know how to do ____ usually, but this needs an expert." He has put down quite a few wood floors. I don't know if it was the concrete slab that messed him up, or dealing with bamboo rather than wood. We tried to ignore it. At first, I told myself it was "texture" on the floor. I originally wanted a hand scraped wood, so I told myself "Ok, here is that textured look I want!" We both tried to pretend it was not happening. We cannot deny it anymore, and it makes us sad because our floor was a BIG deal to us. We hate that we are on a budget and can't get the best wood, nor can we pay anyone to install. Hi justgottobeme! That link did not work. I think you are right about refinishing, but I am worried about the tongue in groove that annz mentioned. lucille-I need to find the bucket in the garage. I do not know what type it was, but it was whatever the saleman at Lumber Liquidators told us to get (yes, I know, that is part of our problem right there...listening to salesmen at LL!) Thank you Dee! Haha...I do the same thing..."We" this and "We" that...but it is all my poor DH! The glue was indeed a mess. He was ready to nail down a hardwood floor, so not sure why he diecided to glue, I think there was a reason, tho. Thanks amy-I think my DH feels extra bad about this. I really don't want him to. I hope we find a remedy. I will keep cheching this thread. Thanks!

sarah posted about her floors and black spots. You can get the black marks, which are rust, out of the wood with oxalic acid. They must be sanded first and then use it and then if you will use waterlox...three coats up to six coats...I will be glad to explain it if you post that you are interested, you will have a great finish that never needs sanding again and can be renewed whenever you want. Are your floors strong or is the disappearancce of the nails a bad sign ? That would be the first thing to check. Caroline

I'd not seal it at all. Leave it and clean every 2 years. If you put anything on it be prepared to do it every 2 years. Then in 6 years you will be sanding again. If you put anything on it make sure it is bone dry. Tape a piece of 6mil poly on it and when there are no longer any moisture beads on it she's bone dry. I have not heard of priming a deck.