Thanks Archnista! You understood what I meant. I appreciate your feedback. To have one last go round on this to understand and compare my BF and I yesterday went to 2 places that I'm dealing with for the bath remodel and see if by staring at displays I could understand more. The first place was the place where I'm getting the cultured marble panels (and install) from. The other place is where I'm getting our Totos, all of our Grohe stuff, plus the lighting and some storage pieces. Both places have lots of displays, not necessarily exactly like ours is going to be - but close enough to depict the ideas. So, the cultured marble place says for a "swing out" door, we'd be looking at an "in-line" notched piece over the bench, then the "swing out" door, then another piece of "in-line". They do indeed do "pivoted" hinges, but we'd have to have enough depth to provide full swing in - that makes total sense. Also, the best possible thing is to have full swing on the outside or at least know what we'd be hitting - toilet for sure if we opened all the way. Also, the BF is worried that the wing out door would collect water and then deposit it on the floor, plus he feels that the swing in deal would mean splattering water outward if one of us enters or exits the shower while water is on (very likely since we do that tonight - i.e. shared showers.) The key thing that helped me was to see the "trim" aspects of the by-pass doors and in the trim type I like. It won't be too bad. I was picturing old fashioned big bulky shower frames of yesteryear. There's much nicer sleeker and contemporary stuff available now. Also, tomorrow the cultured marble guy and my GC are meeting over at the new house to go over the plans for the shower stall. At this point the bench is roughed in and by the time the cultured marble guy arrives I think the plan is to have the window roughed in too. And I think the plumbing values are also going to be roughed in. But I think they'll figure it out. The key thing is everything is down to studs and that means we they can get a clearer picture of what goes where, etc. Thanks for your help. I do think we'll wind up with bypass doors in a minimal frame trim and everything will be fine :) Cheers, --jans We enet

Here's a follow up. I attached a diagram of what I think is in the wall and pictures of one of the hinges and where I want to attach them. I replaced a window on that wall, so I'm fairly sure the sheet rock and insulation part of the diagram is correct. I stuck a paper clip in the hold in the fiberglass, so I think my drawing of the stud is correct too. The screws on the inside would need to be angled to reach the stud. Spacers would have to be put around the long screws to keep the fiberglass from crushing. Do you think this can be done? What would I use for spacers? I also considered drilling a hole in the top and filling the space with concrete. Thoughts on this? I don't know where around the shower the concrete would stop flowing.

So after thinking through the logistics, yes, I think the hinges would need to be set 1 foot in instead of half way through (3’ door). I also have a step down going into the shower (~2”), but yes, it’ll be hot mopped before the tile goes in. The reason I’m doing this style of door is because the one wall that the glass would go on has a pocket door behind it, so not structurally strong enough to have glass hanging from it. I called a shop in my area (San Jose, CA) and his only concern with the idea was that the weight of the glass would be too heavy for those types of hinges. He did say we could potentially do a smaller piece of glass that’s hinged against the pocket door wall, which would relieve some of the weight load from the hinges, without that small piece needing to be a fully load bearing piece (not sure if that made sense how I described it). Thanks everyone for the comments! It’s helped me research the right things!

The problem should have been left to be solved by who ever built the cabinet. Or not, if the cabinet maker is a hack. Hinges can be incredibly complicated. What I can tell you is that they used compact Euro face frame hinges. The basic least expensive hidden Euro hinge. And installed them in a way not intended for them to be installed. Although you have a framed cabinet, they should have used hinges for frameless cabinets. (More on that below.) You need different hinges and probably a combination of overlays. As I said, this gets complicated in a hurry. Upside is that the doors are mounted and the spacing has been corrected so you have an easier starting point to figure out the overlays that you need. Common overlays are full, half & inset. Ignore inset; not applicable. Overlays are fine-tuned by using different mounting plates. You have a framed cabinet but the frame is near flush with the interior sidewalls. So you need to use frameless hinges. And shim the sidewall flush with the frame. Then the appropriate hinges. (Which are going to be considerably more expensive than that basic cheapo hinge they used.) This should help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdTHHGUww0A