Don't use often enough, but love our Ann Sack's Onzen tub. Bought extra drawer bases (2) when ordering MBath cabinetry and installed in MCloset. Each has bookshelf sitting on top/back. DH has books on his. I have a few books and sentimental things on mine. We each have a few leather storage containers also. Toto toliets, ADA height with self-closing lids. LOVE the lids! Self closing drawer hardware in kitchen. Kitchen cabinetry ordered from England. Probably my most favorite thing. Deep, generously sized verandas. Front is flagstone. Upper and lower back verandas stained concrete. Tornado room is huge and located under the front veranda. Solid concrete. Wide door openings throughout house. Door from garage into back hallway is 4 feet wide - movers loved it. Extra deep coat closet inside that hallway. Plenty of floor space storage for extra/unopened dog food, cat litter, etc. Custom sliding panels to conceal great room TV when not in use. Custom door made from vintage shutter on niche next to FP for TV/DISH equipment. The niche was originally a coat closet (next to foyer). We live in the South, and it was a waste for us. Vintage seal from a NYC bridge used over range. Granite counter in the laundry room that runs continuously along one wall. Cabinets/sink/washer/dryer. Love the counter over the w/d. Second laundry room on lower level with larger w/d. Storage! Storage! Storage! All guest rooms have walk-in closets with painted built-in shelving. Each has a small floor to ceiling shelf area also. All bathroom cabinets have feet, no bases. Making them more furniture like. Like Chisue, I hate can lighting. Only have it in the bathrooms and kitchen. If it weren't for DH, we wouldn't have any. I used 4 sconces in both MBR and great room for extra lighting (plus lamps). Copper cupola. Extra deep garage - like Susan said above - can pull in, close door and still walk around vehicle, unload groceries. Also added space between cars. NO pole/supports in garage. We also used Hardi-panels (the stucco looking one) in the garage. Our GC had done it in his home. You can hose it off (we haven't needed to, but we could lol). Painted. We also have the same trim used inside our home inside the garage (base, crown, windows - 2x6 clear pine stained dark). Didn't skimp on finish choices in lower level. It's open on there sides (is not a basement) and we live on a lake so it's a great space. Sheetrock ceiling, not drop down. Same limestone counters in bathroom as main level baths, etc. Poured 14 foot walls. This left plenty of space between floors for HVAC, etc. Ended up with 10+ foot high ceilings. Hallway in lower level is L shaped and 5 feet wide. Five bookcases are built-in in first part of L. Second part of L is getting four bookcases installed today. Had trim carpenter build a potting bench style table inside the walk-in pantry. The microwave and toaster are kept there, and it's great for setting down grocery bags or unloading or making a sandwich. Customized shelves in pantry to my specs. No food storage in kitchen cabinetry. Measure three times, cut once for floor outlets in great room! Exterior outlets and faucets - don't skimp. Copper backsplashes in kitchen and laundry room. I love our home. Here is a link that might be useful: my house tour

Beaded Island Panel (not even sure what this means) - $248 Aesthetic... Side or back? I have a plain panel (for budget reasons) on the back of my peninsula. I now see that since there are stools (or people) there all the time, you really cannot see much of the panel. So, I will not be adding decorative doors later as I had originally planned. Cutlery divider - $68 Cheaper at BB&B or elsewhere. However, if you want it to fit "exactly", have your cabinetmaker do it. This is the one insert I bought from our cabinetmaker for that reason...and it fits exactly! You can get the "cut to fit" or make your own for less, so it's up to you. (There's a thread right now about how difficult some trimmable/cut-to-fit inserts are to actually trim properly.) Door mounted spice rack - $117 Cheaper to buy elsewhere. You could also use a drawer or triple-height shelf in an upper cabinet (triple height is an insert w/3 shelves...each one higher than the one in front of it.) If you go the door-mounted route, remember the shelves will need to be cut back to fit the spice rack...or else be sure it fits b/w shelves and don't store anything on the shelves that would get in the way of the rack when the cabinet door is closed. Have you thought of a 9" or so spice pullout instead? Drawer full extension w/ soft close drawer - $73/each Full-extension - definitely worth it and what I consider a "must have" Soft-close - a "nice to have" but not a must. What's the cost difference b/w full-extension & full-extension w/soft-close? Neither of these can usually be done later If you end up with any roll-out tray shelf trays (ROTS), then only get full-extension, not soft-close as soft-close means you have to wait for the closing delay b/f closing the doors. Glass door clear - $302 Glass door seeded - $536 Much cheaper elsewhere for both. My KD was upfront with me and told me NOT to get my glass doors & glass shelves from her b/c she was too expensive. She recommended we go to a glass "store" (she was so very right!) Don't forget glass shelves Knife block insert - $138 Cheaper elsewhere (check Amazon) Open shelf base cabinet (I guess this is for cook books, etc.?)- $296 I would not do unless it's outside the kitchen proper...dust & dirt can easily collect in base cabinets. Plate rack - $484 Aesthetic...but unless it's installed where there are no cabinets, I don't think it can be installed at a later date. Pot and pan cabinet 30" - $390 Drawers! Definitely worth it! Roll out shelf - $103 I repeat, drawers! Definitely worth it :-) Thread: Drawers or doors with pull outs? Spice drawer insert - $104 Spice rack - $315 These 2 AND a spice rack in the door? How many spices do you have? See this thread: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? Tight mesh pantry shelving - $88 I wouldn't use this at all...I had that in my old kitchen and I hated it! Instead, use a melamine coated solid shelf...easier to clean up, no problems w/spills from the spill to the floor, etc. My KD told me to put in my own shelves as, again, the Contractor overcharges for them. So, our contractor built the pantry and we finished it (Sharb-inspired Pantry Done!) See this pantry thread: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries Tilt tray - $120 Don't have one, didn't want one (and still don't). One disadvantage is that they push the sink back farther to make room...so your sink is set farther back and it can be an issue with back pain (especially if you're tall). However, others here have them and like them. So, it's personal preference. I think these can be retrofitted later...but only if you leave enough space in front of the sink for one. Trash can pullout 2 bin - $409 Definitely worth it. You can retrofit it, but be sure to order the cabinet w/o the door attached (but you do need the door!). Later, you'll attach the pullout you purchase to the door so it's a pullout. It's probably cheaper to do it yourself, but this is one place that I opted to let the cabinetmaker do to ensure the drawer/pullout glides were installed properly.

Incidentally, I don't have either long banks of light switches nor lighting control. I have very minimal lighting control in my FL house (i.e. two lamps controlled by Alexa and my phone) just because it is a novelty/ fun and it was not expensive to do this. In my PA house, we have motion sensors and door jam switches on pantry & all closets, and we also have all of our in-cabinet lighting on low tech basic timers that you turn manually to set the time. Other than that, we have antique chandeliers which work off old-fashioned light switches. The most switches we have is 3 on a lighting bank and we used decorative plate covers so it looks fine. We do have iPads in the walls in two places but they are for control of the music system. I thought for a long time about doing automation for lights b/c as I've said, I've been into various home automation projects over the years. I decided against it. First of all, I didn't see the use in spending the money when it literally takes no effort to switch a light switch. The bigger reason, though, was because I don't trust the systems to always be reliable, not to be overly complicated and not to become outdated. A light switch will work today, tomorrow, next year and in 50 years. It will also work every time to turn on the light and turn it off. I don't need to give a class to my housekeeper or visitors just so they can turn on the light, and when my in-laws house sit/ dog sit, they don't have to call me every 15 minutes to see how to turn on the living room light. I cannot say the same for any automatic system I've ever had. In our old FL house, we took out the must-have intercom which was the thing at the time. The annoyance and cost of that process soured me on doing a lot of stuff that could become outdated since we plan to stay in our house forever. The electronic / automated pool controls in our FL house and my experiences with automation in the past also just soured me on things that have to be programmed and that can suffer tech failures. Sorry- long answer!

in or out only matters if you are 1. getting ready to sell 2. trying to impress a sister in law. that said, i think they are most effective when they have no openings or symmetric openings with the bed centered. otherwise you'd just be highlighting an awkward wall.