Could you find a pencil trim in quarter-round that might match or accent that transition from tile to counter, that is 1/4 inch measured? Or paint a wooden quarter round in a color close to the greige caulk (or to the grout color)? Caulking wouldn't be a bad idea, but there's also something else to think about. This suggestion of the 1/4 round was brought up. If you CAN'T find one in a color that would work for you, you can always "redo" the color. Simply go to any craft shop, and look for the ceramic stains. They're usually used over raw clay, but can also be used over a glaze. You can change the color to whichever one you like.

three leaf clover: Check your countertops for level. Install plastic non-compressive shims if not. Place a continuous shim the thickness of the grout line on the counter. I've used 2 rips of 3/4" wide plastic laminate with great success. You may want to dab some hot melt to hold it in place. Adhere your tile to the wall, starting by placing the first row on the shim. Tile as high as necessary to get where you need to be. Grout the tile, then pull the shim and push color-match silicone into the gap.

I like your attitude and advice, Jancy. I do love my choice of countertop (Silestone Cemento Suede), which I paired with natural cherry shaker cabinets (3" wide rails and stiles) with orb hardware. I was going for a simple, warm modern farmhouse look. The kitchen is around 7' x 12." Three straight sides, no corner cabinets: a pantry wall with fridge (approximately 7'), an island with sink (approximately 7'), and a wall with range and otr microwave in the middle (approximately 7'). So my range wall is of similar length as yours, Jancy (90'). That wall is the only one with a backsplash and like you, I didn't want to deal with grout. I also liked the simplicity of the full-height backsplash... and, as a bonus, I had the extra material available from the countertop slabs, so I only needed to pay a bit extra for installation. Also, another consideration is that the kitchen is part of a great room and is visible as soon as you walk in the door, so it felt as if the stone backsplash would give the cabinet more of the look of furniture. I definitely don't want tile (even though I said earlier that might be an option). I would consider a stainless steel plate with brushed finish because it feels as if that would tie the range and microwave together... as if they were all one unit. However, the wall may be too short and the stainless too industrial for the look I'm going for. I do know however that I will not be happy if the stone gets chipped if I have to replace the microwave. In answer to your question, prosource, I believe the microwave will be fairly level with the bottom of the cabinets. The opening is 18" high and the microwave is 17 1/2" high. Also, I don't want to get off subject, but at some point, Jance, I would be very interested in knowing if you used plug mold and, if so, what kind. Or did you put outlets in backsplash? All thoughts welcome.

Mrs. S: Ground joints are about 1/8 inch. Tiler did not put a spacer between countertop and tiles. Tiles are 12x12 sheet of beige marble. Grout is ivory. Caulk used here in photo doesn't match grout color exactly so adds to unfinished look. Tiler said cutting marble tiles that small makes them easy to crack. Thank you for your reply. eam44: Gap is between top of backsplash tile and bottom of upper cabinets. Thank you for your reply.