The acrylic radii sections are cut with a trammel. The cut sections are clamped and adhered together. Blocking is hot melted to the acrylic circle. Note the side and front-to back spacers. I made sure blocking was hot melted over each seam. The 3/16" sides are adhered to the blocking and the solid surface. I pulled the built-up edge out of my oven, 15 minutes at 350 degrees, and thermoformed it around the frame. As gentle as the Daniclamps are, I should have used a laminate shim on their lip to spread the load because they dimpled my pieces occasionally. Fortunately, the dimples sanded out. My neighbor Frank cuts my old mirror on my dining room table. He wouldn't take any money. We built the reflected chandelier and valance too. I've painted the frame and I'm sticking tile with Power Grab. The white solid surface has been profiled and polished, hence the blankie. I've painted the raw mirror edge with clear nail polish per Frank's instruction and installed it. I've used mechanical fasteners with an uncured rubber roofing shim between the metal and mirror; Frank wanted mirror silicone. The blobs are mastic that stuck my old mirror to the wall. If I remove them and they take the back of the mirror when they go, I'm screwed so I leave them. Detail drawings dribbled with Acetone.

Is there a bull nose tile in the same colour/pattern? Have you contacted the manufacturer to find out if you can find a matching bull nose tile? This is the normal way to go around corners. The metal will ALWAYS out perform a mitred porcelain tile edge. It takes TREMENDOUS force (think car crash) to get metal Schluter edges to do anything other than sit their and look good. And I mean "car crash" dynamic forces...that's not just a visual. To damage a thin, exposed, cut porcelain tile...all you need to do is drop your smart phone or come down hard with the sole of your boot. Bam. Chipped edge. First off, find out if you can purchase a bull nose tile for this situation (good tile manufacturers make them for every line). After that, you should look to the Schluter. And then you can use mitred tile if you can't get hold of either one.

I hate splashes from filthy children (and healthy kids are frequently filthy), so I took the tile to the ceiling on the sink wall and tub surround. Other walls had the schluter. I used it as an accent throughout. (World’s narrowest bathroom has laundry through the door!) You can also miter ANY tile (except glass)—you just back out from the edge a tiny bit so you don’t chip it. With some tiles, you can lay this so tightly that it doesn’t need caulk. With others, a bit of color-matched (to grout) caulk, and the peek of the body color was hidden. I did the schluter because I paid someone not quite as proficient as I am to do this, and with the brick joint, you have to have a raw edge somewhere. John Bridge forums taught me this! The guys there are amazing! Here is a place where I taught him the back-joint trick and it worked with the layout. And NO, it wasn’t supposed to be grouted—which is why it cracked immediately. I haven’t gotten around to digging that out yet and redoing it. I have the caulk I bought for doing it. I didn’t catch it in time. This wasn’t through-body porcelain. Bulnosing wasn’t an option.

I've been going back and forth on this same topic for the white ceramic subway tile I'll be installing as a backsplash in my kitchen. I'm using a 2"x4" mosaic. The problem is they don't make matching bullnose pieces. I can get them in bigger sizes and try and cut them down with a wet saw, but they're thicker than the mosaic (1/4" vs. 5/16"). I'll have some areas where the edge of the tile is open (i.e. doesn't terminate into a wall or cabinet). For those edges, I really just want a matching 2"x4" bullnose piece with the bullnose on the short edge. In the upper corner, I want a 2"x4" bullnose piece with a bullnose on both the short and long edges. For the top row where it's open, I want 2"x4" bullnose pieces with the bullnose on the long edge. I looked at the Schluter, but I really didn't like it. I'm going for a more rustic look, and I think it has more of a modern look. The solution I finally found was a place down in Cincinnati where you send them pieces of your field tile and they make them into bullnose pieces to your specification with a kiln fired finish. That way everything matches my field tile. It's costing me about $4 per bullnose tile, but it's giving me exactly the look I want. I think they have a minimum order amount of $50.