I don't like the way bullnose tile looks. It looks bulky to me and the grout lines never match up with the line of the tile. I used schluter in my new bathroom remodel and I couldn't be happier with the look. I have one more bathroom to remodel and I will most definitely use it again! I'd post a picture but I don't know how.

We used stainless schluter i our shower & it looks very nice. I don't have a pic, but I can take one when I get home.

Dragonfly, can you post a picture of what you are describing with quarter round trim? I assume that is wood and would be painted??? I am looking for a sleek, clean look so I don't want to introduce more finishes than necessary. but I am intrigued by your solution!

Quarter round trim is a thin tile that will also hide tile’s unglazed edge and is used to turn a corner or to finish edge of installation. Here's an example (not the style of tile you are using but many field tiles have finishing pieces like these to match the tile).

OK! Does look better than bullnose for sure, but unfortunately not available for my tile.

Schluter has so many different finishes available. Maybe your spouse would be more comfortable with one of the colored trims that would blend with your selected tile (rather than stainless or something else shiny).

My daughter's bathroom has a more contemporary look. She used a Schluter edge on her backsplash and thought about doing it on the edge of her tub wall too. She ended up doing the bullnose though because she decided it was a richer look.

I didn't use anything. I just used the field tile and really finished it nicely. It is a through body color though so it was Ok.

The first picture is one I took 4 or 5 years ago at the Anne Sacks showroom in Seattle. I was interested in a clean outside edge. They took the tile to the edge. This corner is an outside corner, sticking out toward the viewer.

Here is my clean and finished cuts at the niche, before grouting and caulking was done. This is through body porcelain:

Enduring, your edges look really nice! My tile is through body as well, so maybe that is an option. I'll have to look at the sample tile I have to see it matches the front as well as yours. On yours, the other side of the edge is really not visible in the pic, and I wonder how that thin sliver of tile will look in my case, where both sides will be very visible.

I haven't discussed this with the tile guy yet either, and don't know what his preference will be. It's probably not a good idea to ask him to do something he's not used to doing!

If yours is a through body you can accomplish that finish by treating the edges with mitering (as in endurings first photo above), or polishing (as in second photo) but it is not clear what edges you are treating without a photo/diagram . As an alternative for a contemporary look, cut the tile into long "sticks". I'm guessing your tile is about 3/8" thick. It can be cut to the size needed for these edges by 1) polish edge where you will cut, 2) cut it to size needed, 3) polish edge again. Then you have all these "sticks/long blocks) to use at corners and they fit as they are all the same thickness as your field tile (and match perfectly). BUT, as you said, better be sure you have a real Pro. We do it all the time, particularly when a more minimalist or contemporary style is in play. We also have special blades to create various size bullnose from the field tile. Have a good chat with the tile craftsman! (Do some vetting). Best of luck.

Numbers, I’m not sure what you’re asking but I took some current pictures. This was my DIY job in 2013-14. It’s not perfect as evidenced by the caulking smears in places. But my eyes are old and I don’t ever look that close, lol.

Click open the pic and note the bit of exposed back side waviness.

Dragonfly, I really like the stick concept. Do you use any caulk at that change of plane, or only grout? Do you end up polishing the back side of the tile too, to remove the wavy back texture?

Grind the back textured side that is hidden at install (shave flat about 1/16th or so) to create a straight line. Nothing to be caulked there as you are grouting between field tile and the "stick". Polishing only needed for exposed sides.

Thanks Dragonfly

I hate splashes from filthy children (and healthy kids are frequently filthy), so I took the tile to the ceiling on the sink wall and tub surround. Other walls had the schluter. I used it as an accent throughout.

(World’s narrowest bathroom has laundry through the door!)

You can also miter ANY tile (except glass)—you just back out from the edge a tiny bit so you don’t chip it. With some tiles, you can lay this so tightly that it doesn’t need caulk. With others, a bit of color-matched (to grout) caulk, and the peek of the body color was hidden. I did the schluter because I paid someone not quite as proficient as I am to do this, and with the brick joint, you have to have a raw edge somewhere.

John Bridge forums taught me this! The guys there are amazing!

Here is a place where I taught him the back-joint trick and it worked with the layout. And NO, it wasn’t supposed to be grouted—which is why it cracked immediately. I haven’t gotten around to digging that out yet and redoing it. I have the caulk I bought for doing it. I didn’t catch it in time.

This wasn’t through-body porcelain. Bulnosing wasn’t an option.

I'm hoping the miter option will work and the tile guy is up to the task! The tile is 3/8ths thick -it is colorbody tile, but the sides most definitely don't look like the top.

I will still love to see more pics, with close ups, of the schluter strips used on outside edges with 3/8ths thick tile.

Your wish is my command. ;)

Yep, the wall is already a little dirty. Kids or remodeling in the laundry room—who knows?

I had the door casing redone to get the tile into that corner. Then I had a custom door frame fabricated to go over the thicker wall.