BINGO! I received an e-mail response from hardwoodlumberandmore.com with a link to an oil-based paint base. The product description recommends it for paint as a clear finish use and even cites the article. I called and spoke with Steve Mickley, a friend of the guy who did the control test with doors in his backyard. He wrote an article which expands the original one bobsmyuncle has linked on this forum. He was very helpful and encouraging. My doors are pine and probably original to the 50-year-old house. He cautioned against sanding to remove the finish so as not to remove the patina. He said if I use a chemical stripper, the pine should take stain evenly without having to use a conditioner. Drats! It would have been easy to sand the finish off these doors, but I'm going to follow his advice. My other problem is that we're consistently having temperatures of 108-110 degrees here. While miserable, I can sand when it's that hot, but the chemical stripper just bakes onto the finish. Moreover, the new finish shouldn't be applied in extreme heat either. My hardware, glass and finish should all arrive next week. I'm going to hope for a cold front, so I can get this project done. Here is a link that might be useful: oil-based paint base (as a clear finish)

For the time being at least, leave the stone above the fireplace plain. If at some point in time in the future you find art you truly like, the you could add that ... but don't just look/settle for something there because you think you should want something there. Like recliners myself. Consider a pair of them. As long as you leave the walk path clear between front door and back of the house, how you define your sitting space as being separate from the walk space depends upon what works for you. A room sized rug would be worth considering and/or a long runner in the walk path might serve the purpose. You could invest in a couple waist high shelving units and put one on each side of the room with the back to the living/sitting area and the doors, whether glass or solid ... or even open shelves ... facing the entry hall. They'll need to be sized and weighted and/or secured to wall/floor so they'll not easily tip over so you could also add a lamp on each one. Think: upscale overhead kitchen cabinet with glass doors and finished board on top set atop a built base. #5 of 20 https://www.thespruce.com/ingenious-ikea-billy-bookcase-hacks-4006865 https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/sarreid-ltd-library-bookcase-rfd3082.html

Thank you all so much for the great feedback!! I love the design choices and inspirational photos shared with me. I agree with removing the shudders. The driveway has a somewhat tight roundabout that we may have to consider removing. Although I do love the Japanese Maple in the center. Lots to think about and hopefully with the help of an Architect we can come come up with the right design. I have included more photos to show the driveway. It is just a little more than a car’s width around. Thanks again and stay safe. ❤️

I have an old stone entrance floor from the 70s and I want to update it. I just bought this home and have a lot of updating to do! The grout is very dirty and I do not like the red and green colors. Any suggestions on what to do?? Thought about painting it but not sure what colours to use or what kind of paint and seal. Please help! Thank you!