What is being referred to as "Xenon" here is really incandescent bulbs. Smaller incandescent bulbs (like the type found in old-style flashlights for example) have a much lower color temperature, and as a consequence the light typically feels very orange-colored and dull. Bulb designs filled with Xenon gas help compensate for this, to some extent. I can get much more into the technical details if you want, but that is the basics of it. In general though, Xenon will still give off a lower color temperature than halogen, so if you really want a brighter whiter color of light, Xenon is probably not the best option. LED is probably the best option for undercabinet lighting, but can oftentimes be overly pricey. If color rendering is an important consideration, you might want to look into high CRI LED lighting, because under regular LED lighting colors can appear just a little grey-washed or yellowish. This is likely to be even more pricey though. Incandescent bulbs (which includes Xenon and halogen) are just not particularly well suited to undercabinet strip lighting. For one thing, when there are multiple bulbs each with a lower wattage, the color of light is confined to the very warm white color territory. Then there are always bulbs burning out that need to be replaced. There are many different options, and they all carry their own subtle advantages and trade-offs. All undercabinet lighting is kind of overpriced, in my opinion, so unless you are really looking to create a dream kitchen, you might want to consider going without it.

My first post, but have some experience in electrical and now lately the WAC brand. Transformers need to be readily accessible, such as back of cabinets, basement, or in a closet. Locations that would be frowned upon: Above upper cabinets requiring a ladder, underneath bottom cabinets requiring kneeling and removing toe kick. Therefore, put it wherever it meets your design criteria. Can mount transformer inside cabinet but depending if it is a plug-in or direct wire application. If plug-in, then need outlet gang box that is fed from non-accessible part of the cabinet. Direct wire would require conduit into a knock-out. Just note, if you can pull your lighting load from a lighting circuit, not any of kitched outlets. That is code but I doubt a 1A load will really make a difference since we are dealing with LED's these days. Joiner cables can be run thru wall but need to be "in-wall" rated or meet CSA rating. Class 2 wiring I believe also meets. Since I've dealt with WAC, they have joiner cable that is "in-wall" rated and not. Make sure to use the correct one. To save money, use "in-wall" speaker wiring if making a long run to a gang of lights. Thermostat wiring is good also if decent gauge. Then use their lead wire of various lengths to connect the in-wall wiring to the strip light. Splices can be made in the wall but I don't recommend it for a couple reasons. One their connections are not strong, meaning they can easily disconnect just from their own cable weight. Second would be for trouble shooting. Use a small gang box to tie multiple leads with wire nuts or better yet Wago terminal blocks. Ideally would be to have these connections protected inside of box but not required. That would eliminate the 3/4-way costs also.

There already is a built-in one-inch light rail integrated into the cabinets (i.e. the underside of the cabinet is about an inch deep). Designer said at the outset when I asked this question in December that we would not need additional light rails because of that integrated rail. I think the issue is really just that the electrician chose thicker LED bars (I did not see them before install). I should have specced them myself, but did not. I know that is on me. In my defense, this is a whole house project that has been going on since November, this is my first major renovation, and I am also in the middle of selling my current home. So tired! Lawrence, to answer your other questions. 2. Hard wired. 3. There are three separate banks of UCLs on separate switches in different areas of the kitchen. The UCLs within each bank are linked together. 4. As currently installed there are wall switches AND switches on the lights themselves. No dimmer. 5. Countertop is honed 6. I am not sure of the light temperature. I think they said around 2800K.

Flexfire LED UB-AT1-30K97C-12V-16FT: 12 volt, 3000K, 16 ft: $115 SuperBrightLEDs STN-A30K90-C3A-10B5M-12V: 12 volt, 3000K, 16 ft: $43 Armacost RibbonFlex 16 ft. Tape Light Kit (with transformer and accessories): $54 What's the difference?