I am with rmkitchen on the IKEA butcherblock. It may even cost less than laminate!! I have a wood laminate in my kitchen that I will be ripping out (I HATE it). "Butcher block" laminates were common in the 1970s and early 1980s. I would worry about how it would look. Some of the granite and marble laminate look alikes I think are much better looking than the wood look-alikes. I have seen the IKEA bb in person, and we will be considering it for our island. It really is a great bargain, an they have several woods to choose from- I believe oak, birch and beech. You can also stain any of these. From what I underatnd from the salespeople there, the beech has a pinkish undertone but would take a darker stain better than the birch. The birch has the clearest grain pattern, followed by beech, and then of course, oak.

The "oil finishes" are hardwax oil products that are applied as a single coat. They are traditionally a matte finish and they require maintenance by the homeowner. You must be prepared for the maintenance. Many of the factory finished engineered floors with oil finishes can require (or would benefit from) an application of maintenance oil applied as soon as they are installed. This isn't a huge issue (because it is relatively easy) but it is something that most people do not know and therefore "miss" the opportunity to add this little bit of extra love at the beginning. Once installed, the oil floors are beautiful, raw-looking wood finish. They are low gloss. If you are someone who likes the look of a "clean shiny floor" then you will be horribly disappointed by the floors and will spend days and days trying to "clean" the floors to a "shine" - without any success. Tears are soon to follow. As for "UV oil finish" this is just a fun way of saying the factory used UV lights to speed up the curing of the finish. Instead of 2-3 days, the cure can be reduced to a few minutes under UV lighting. That's it. That's the whole difference. Other than that, UV cured vs. natural cured hardwax "oil" finishes are the same beast. If you love the look of oil finished flooring, then go for it. But PLEASE FIND OUT the maintenance requirements and purchase ALL of the maintenance products at the same time that you purchase the floor. That includes any "colour oil" products used to create the colour at the factory. Once the floor has been delivered, I would find a "culled" or warped plank (an imperfect plank that will not be installed) and start playing with your maintenance products on the board (or boards) so that you are well schooled BEFORE a little "oopsa" occurs. It will make your life MUCH easier.

@AJD. I know this an old post, but I am curious as to what the tile is in your original post? Was that a backsplash tile or countertop? If it was for your countertop, please let me know what it is as I really like the look of it. Only difference is that I am looking for a lighter European White Oak LVP, SPC with minimum of 20 mil and natural or micro bevel. Having the hardest time finding something!

I understand why it must seem confusing. Ideally I would use the same flooring however my stairs have bullnosing which I want to maintain. Mohawk don't have available stairnosing that will allow for the bullnose to show and from pictures/videos I've seen it doesn't look great: With LVP there is stairnosing which can just slot into the existing bullnose: