The first thing you will need to find out is whether or not you are required to use any form of acoustic underlayment with a new floor. If so, the vinyl is pretty much out the window.

If you wish to install over the wood parquet, then vinyl is pretty much out the window. Vinyl and wood FINISHES do NOT play nice together. There have been issues of polyurethane STAINING vinyl flooring. The stain has been known to leach through to the SURFACE of they vinyl floor sitting on top....which is a nasty bit of work = new floor needed.

And the window exchange happening AFTER the floor is in, pretty much negates MOST vinyl products (not all...but most). Vinyl does NOT like "hot". It does not like "UV" and it does not like large swings in temperature.

As for putting in something else over the old parquet, it is very possible. A floating laminate or a floating engineered hardwood is POSSIBLE to put over top...with the MASSIVE caveat: the old parquet must be FLAT! So flat that NOTHING needs to be done to it. It if is NOT flat, it should be removed, the subfloor below sanded/patched to the point where another floor can be installed over the newly prepared, flat, surface.

If you are going to the level of preparation, you can then have any floor you want. If you believe vinyl is a STRONG option for you then I would do the windows FIRST...and then the floors come second.

In fact, I HIGHLY recommend you do the windows first, then the floors. Because we all know "window jobs" that have RUINED thousands of dollars worth of flooring because of weird things like rain or even birds.

Do the windows first, let the OLD floors take the beating that comes with changing windows and then deal with the mess, and new floors afterwards. This is traditionally the SAFEST option.

Thank you for the very thorough response, SJ!

LVP is out. Windows first, then we'll look into engineered and laminate.

Any brand recommendations?

Also, for oil finished engineered... yay or nay? Is there a difference with UV oil and just oil finished?

The "oil finishes" are hardwax oil products that are applied as a single coat. They are traditionally a matte finish and they require maintenance by the homeowner. You must be prepared for the maintenance.

Many of the factory finished engineered floors with oil finishes can require (or would benefit from) an application of maintenance oil applied as soon as they are installed. This isn't a huge issue (because it is relatively easy) but it is something that most people do not know and therefore "miss" the opportunity to add this little bit of extra love at the beginning.

Once installed, the oil floors are beautiful, raw-looking wood finish. They are low gloss. If you are someone who likes the look of a "clean shiny floor" then you will be horribly disappointed by the floors and will spend days and days trying to "clean" the floors to a "shine" - without any success. Tears are soon to follow.

As for "UV oil finish" this is just a fun way of saying the factory used UV lights to speed up the curing of the finish. Instead of 2-3 days, the cure can be reduced to a few minutes under UV lighting. That's it. That's the whole difference.

Other than that, UV cured vs. natural cured hardwax "oil" finishes are the same beast.

If you love the look of oil finished flooring, then go for it. But PLEASE FIND OUT the maintenance requirements and purchase ALL of the maintenance products at the same time that you purchase the floor. That includes any "colour oil" products used to create the colour at the factory. Once the floor has been delivered, I would find a "culled" or warped plank (an imperfect plank that will not be installed) and start playing with your maintenance products on the board (or boards) so that you are well schooled BEFORE a little "oopsa" occurs. It will make your life MUCH easier.