Header or no header above the opening from hallway to the kitchen
irika
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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Putting a header above trusses or inbetween trusses
Comments (13)I can't make much sense out of the diagram or the photos because you don't say which way the trusses span, how they are spaced, and the diagram is apparently not to scale (24 ft wall is shown longer than 28 ft wall?) If the trusses are designed to span the 28 ft dimension of the house, then walls near the mid-span would have no load to carry and could simply be removed. Bearing walls under trusses are rare and would occur at about the 1/4 points where the V-shaped intermediate chords meet the bottom chords. The force at the bottom mid-span of this kind of truss is horizontal tension only. If the headers/walls in question were actually carrying the load of the roof, double 2x10's would be needed (or larger in a cold climate). So, it appears to me (although I don't really understand enough about this structure to have a clear opinion) that someone might have tried to remedy the bottom chord sag in overloaded or poorly designed and/or fabricated trusses by reinforced them with plywood gusset plates at the connections and adding walls/headers at the mid-span. However, it does seem odd that vertical or angled chords were not added to the truss to transfer load to the walls/headers. Perhaps there are transfer beams along the bottom truss chords extending out 7 ft or so in each direction from the walls/headers. Of course, they would have to be very large inefficient members. Perhaps they span the entire room. Then again, maybe someone just added some walls and doorways to separate the spaces and used 2x6 headers in case the trusses sagged a bit. Are there sufficient supports below the wall and the jambs of the opening that take loads to the ground? If not, these walls are definitely not structural. A center beam might have been designed to only carry the floor load. This would be obvious to an engineer. You should strip all finishes and then have an engineer tell you how to repair the trusses so they can span the entire space without any walls or headers (if you can find one willing to take responsibility for patching a poorly designed truss). If the exterior walls are leaning out at the top plates, then the connections at those points may have failed, spread, and forced the bottom chords downward. Sistering some chords and proper joint reinforcement should make the existing trusses work properly but if the exterior walls are not plumb, you might have to pull them back in place first. Truss design may look easy but it is a job for a structural engineer. Don't rely on advice about complex structural conditions from a contractor or anyone on the internet. Get an engineer on site. Your son might be wiser than you think....See MoreHeader, cased opening height, and interior inconsistency
Comments (10)It's rather hard to visualize the actual situation, but from experience I'd say that the higher head height will be just fine since it's not on the same walls as the windows or any of the other openings (I'm guessing). And the views to/from parts of the house will see this and all other openings in perspective. The only concern I'd have is if there are other lower openings on the same wall plane as the higher openings. Good luck!...See MoreNeed help! Header beam ruining renovation.
Comments (16)I have a similar problem with a kitchen beam, only mine involves spanning the stem wall and existing pier since we can’t drill a new pier that was specified. I had to hire a new structural engineer. My architect isn’t a pain in the ass, but he doesn’t do the structural work (specific license and insurance for engineering). In my case, the new engineer was able to write a permit addendum, which is common with remodels since surprises happen. You probably don’t need a new architect, just an engineer. In my neck of the woods, that beam hangs too low to pass code, so it will have to be re-engineered. Also, if they replace the beam with steel, keep in mind that it’s more costly to install and work with than glue lam or other engineered wood beams. Also, it has to be custom fabricated and shipped, likely increasing the time you have to wait for it. A good structural engineer will come out to the site, take plenty of measurements and photos and notes, take copies of your existing plans and calcs and charge you just for the work that needs to be redone. Do not work with an engineer who refuses to come out or that tells a contractor to submit what they want and they’ll draw it. Good luck....See Morewindow and door header help, please!
Comments (39)Ok, ok, I’ve opened up this can of worms, & received some fairly negative feedback on our plans which has us doubting ourselves. As you can imagine, we’re getting ready to invest a good chunk of change into this and want it to be a well designed plan and is a joy to come home to, not a disappointment. So, now what? Is it possible to hire an architect just for a consult? If so, and we did revise the plans, who would do the blueprints? How do you find a good architect? Can this be done remotely? So many questions. @Holly, I would love to hear how you managed some of these issues, but I don’t see how to pm you....See Moreirika
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