Wainscot/Trim Caulking and Painting Question
bsds71
2 years ago
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doc5md
2 years agoRelated Discussions
A Crown Moulding, Caulking and Paint Question
Comments (2)I caulked, touched up ceiling not worrying about a bit on moulding then painting moulding, then wall touchup. "Work down so paint drips are taken care of in next step" was concept for this. By the way, there is a paint I use now for all trim, mouldings, doors etc that I cannot stop raving about (CIL SMART3 WASH & WEAR Kitchen & Bath - Ultra White). It doesnt yellow, washes easy, goes on easy, dries fast and is relatively cheap. Will never use oil-based again after this. One note, use Zinsser bullseye if going from oil to CIL)....See Moreprep work for caulking and painting chair rail and panel moulding
Comments (1)BM has a caulk for that purpose. Use the best caulk. Wait 24 hours before painting over the caulk. DAP Dynaflex 230 is also a good choice. Examine the chair rail with your finger tips. Smooth out any rough areas or dust nibs. Nail holes should be filled with wood filler or heavy spackling. Sand smooth when dry and spot prime before painting. Never use caulk in nail holes. Note: Fill nail holes, sand chair rail smooth, then caulk after clean up. Michael...See MoreWainscoting and Caulking
Comments (6)Thanks energy rater -- I was confused about caulking in this particular application. This is the snippet from the article I was referring to about caulking wainscoting in particular. ------- "It is always best not to depend on caulking as a fallback for haphazard workmanship. Cut trim and clapboard joints tightly, or scarf them with overlapping miters so they don't gap excessively. Also, never caulk around panels in woodwork, such as a raised panel door or wainscot. These panels are designed to move freely in their framework during seasonal changes-as much as 1/8 for a 12 panel. Caulking them in place could spell disaster because today's stronger caulks will often allow the wood to split before they break their bond. If you absolutely cannot stand to look at a gap that is expected to move seasonally, run just a slight bead of caulk along the surface, but never inject it underneath the joints of the paneling. ------- Unfortunately, I have a case of poor craftsmanship that I am attempting to make moderately better. Thanks for chiming in one and all! Here is a link that might be useful: The Short Course on Caulk, by Noelle Lord...See MoreExterior repaint 101 questions from newbie--caulk? sander?
Comments (12)Paint peeling from paint is not a good thing. It means the undercoat was not clean and dull. But don't worry, the job can be done! The first step is washing the surfaces to be painted. I use Jomax house cleaner. It works for general cleaning or mold and mildew removal with bleach. It's safe for shrubs and plants too. So, wash the surfaces and rinse. Let dry. DO NOT POWERWASH. Read the Jomax label. Buy a good Wooster scraper/wire brush and scrape loose paint from the surfaces and lightly sand the edges of old and new paint with #150 grit sandpaper. Apply one coat of Peel Stop. Peel Stop is made by Zinsser. See the tech bulletin that follows this post. For the finish coat, I would use Sherwin Williams Duration in your choice of color and sheen. Michael Here is a link that might be useful: Peel Stop...See Morebsds71
2 years agodoc5md
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2 years agojust_janni
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRockin' Fine Finish
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2 years ago
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