Exterior repaint 101 questions from newbie--caulk? sander?

18 years ago

Complete diy newbie here but eager to learn the right techniques. We might repaint the outside of our house (brick house, so just eaves and trim and garage doors). Old paint is peeling badly. I have never undertaken any diy project like this (this is our first house). So, some basic questions:

1. I have heard you should caulk some part of the exterior before painting. Can anyone clarify the purpose of the caulk? What type of caulk do you get? We have some new roof overhang--new eaves and fascia that was replaced (got a new roof put on, and some of the existing wood was rotted, so they replaced it). Do we caulk the gaps between the new wood up there? Just need some basic pointers here.

2. What is the best type of sander for this type of project?

Thanks for any tips!

-Chris

Comments (12)

Michael_H
18 years ago
I have a question that needs answered before you can proceed.

Why is the paint peeling? Moisture pushing it off or paint applied to a dirty surface?

Do you have a picture?

Michael
Chris Stromberger
Original Author
18 years ago
Well, the house is old and I don't think the exterior was well kept up by previous owner (we just bought it). Most of the peeling appears to be a newer layer of paint peeling off an older layer underneath. I don't have any pix now but can post some soon.
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You don't need to wash the trim if you're sanding with a hand sander. In fact, why are you bothering to sand at all? That's typically not done or needed. However, to answer your question, you can safely use power tools outside in wet weather, as long as you're: 1) not in pouring rain, 2) not standing in a puddle, and 3) your extension cord plug end doesn't fall into a puddle. To be particularly safe, it would be a good idea to plug the extension cord into a GFCI-protected receptacle, which you should have in several inside locations and all outside locations, in a new house. I also presume that most of what you are painting is at least slightly protected by the edge of the roof? Humidity is not an issue, other than slowing drying time a little. It would be best to use latex primer/paint, as this is water-based, and will also dry faster in these conditions than oil-based paint. Unless you get a driving rain directly on the painted trim within an hour of application, you'll be fine. At worst, you might have to re-coat it if it got drenched. I think you are making this project too elaborate. Just caulk where you must, and slap the primer on when you get a little break in the weather; then paint. This should only take a couple of nights. And, if you've never caulked, here is a tip. Get a good quality PAINTABLE caulk (it should have a 30-50 year warranty). Practice a little bit. And be aware that you can do a really neat job by using a moist paper towel, or even your finger, to smooth the bead immediately after you lay it down. This will get rid of any irregularities and make for an unnoticeable caulk job. Just keep plenty of paper towels around to keep you tidy as you proceed. Good luck.
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Michael_H
18 years ago
Paint peeling from paint is not a good thing. It means the undercoat was not clean and dull. But don't worry, the job can be done!

The first step is washing the surfaces to be painted. I use Jomax house cleaner. It works for general cleaning or mold and mildew removal with bleach. It's safe for shrubs and plants too. So, wash the surfaces and rinse. Let dry. DO NOT POWERWASH. Read the Jomax label.

Buy a good Wooster scraper/wire brush and scrape loose paint from the surfaces and lightly sand the edges of old and new paint with #150 grit sandpaper. Apply one coat of Peel Stop. Peel Stop is made by Zinsser. See the tech bulletin that follows this post.

For the finish coat, I would use Sherwin Williams Duration in your choice of color and sheen.

Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: Peel Stop
JRRR
18 years ago
Test for lead before proceeding if any of the old paint layers date before the mid '70's.
Chris Stromberger
Original Author
18 years ago
Thanks for the info. So would the sanding be done by hand, or is using some type of power sander appropriate? Also, I have heard that one should caulk before painting. Where do we caulk? The house has eaves. Do we caulk those joints?

-Chris
homebound
18 years ago
Caulk the gaps that aren't suppose to be there, basically. This includes outer edges of windows (between window and exterior walls, and any cracks that are developing in the window frames.

Hand sanding is fine.
Michael_H
18 years ago
Caulking before painting is the best way. Make sure some high school kid down at Home Depot doesn't sell you on a 100% silicone caulk. Use a high grade Acrylic Latex caulk. A Benjamin Moore 25 year caulk is fine, and it's paintable.

Michael
Chris Stromberger
Original Author
18 years ago
Do you caulk first or prime first, or does it matter?
homebound
18 years ago
caulk first
Michael_H
18 years ago
It's very important to prime bare wood before caulking it. Caulk will not adhere to bare wood for very long. Primed or painted surfaces can be caulked after cleaning.

Primer will also highlight those void areas that need caulking that you may not see at first glance.

Read the labels of all materials before using them.

Michael
Chris Stromberger
Original Author
18 years ago
Good info, thanks. What about the wood filler putty? Like to fill in nail hole depressions. Does that go on before priming bare wood, or is it like caulk and should go on after primer?
Michael_H
18 years ago
Depends on the wood putty. I would use painter's putty. If you're using Crawford's, which I use, it requires that the wood be primed before puttying. Since this is exterior, I recommend a quality putty like Crawford's.

If you're not using Crawford's, read the label on the one you choose to use.

Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: Painter's Putty

Exterior repaint 101 questions from newbie--caulk? sander?

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Chris Stromberger
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Exterior repaint 101 questions from newbie--caulk? sander?

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