>It's hard to believe they don't realize there's a problem. Makes one wonder if they can really be that out of touch, or, if they just don't care< You could be talking about most of the industry - pretty much anything woody that has been in a band, liner or 4 inch pot at some point in the production cycle is very likely to end up being offered to the retail public with terrible root deformities right at the base of the stem, where you often can't do anything about it. Despite being a retailer Burnt Ridge is an actual grower that produces their own finished stock. I have been to their property at least a couple of times, the quality and value of the trees their field growing operation generates can be stunning. And they have a hillside planted with all manner of chestnut cultivars and other edible theme trees; if they were located in Britain they might be the holders of the National Collection of just the chestnuts alone. So I would keep watching what they offer over the years (catalag seems to have a number of new and interesting items every year), and just keep in mind that - same as elsewhere - there is a tendency for bare-rooted dormant stock to have better roots than potted stock. Also with mail order in general, because you are not able to inspect the plants before purchase it is a good idea to limit your catalog/internet purchases to those items it appears you really can't get somewhere you are willing or able to travel to yourself. I've been known to drive as far as the San Diego area to shop plants myself.

I think the problem may be even more insidious than has yet been alluded to. Industry practices aimed at producing plants with deformed roots are not simply oversight on the part of nurseries, but are actually considered best practice. I have been told by the head grafter at a well-known production house that rootstock should be root-bound at the time of grafting to achieve a high take rate. I think this was just another way of looking at the problem that the understock should go very dry before grafting to prevent sap rise. Another large-scale grafter/grower has given the advice that, when growing plants on, it's important to keep the root system pot-bound and only pot up when absolutely needed, "or else the plant won't grow" I'm not sure what that is about but it sounds like the grower is able to direct growth into the shoots by restraining the root system. These quotes come from managers at large-scale, well-known production houses. The sad fact is that, these practices help them to meet their goals and if they begin providing better care to the root system, their results would fall off from their perspective. With "know-how" like this circulating in the nursery industry, I don't think these practices are going to change any time soon. Short of propagating your own plants, the only thing to do is to completely bare-root as mentioned above. Problem is, this does occasionally kill the unfortunate plant whose roots are mangled beyond repair. :*(

That tree is obviously very well established and with numerous decades under its belt. While never a good thing, if those girdling roots were to be a concern, that concern would have manifested already with stunted growth and lack of foliage development and the tree would be already in decline. It doesn't appear to be suffering any of those conditions :-) I would guess at this length of time after planting, there are more than enough structural roots radiating out from the trunk to provide anchorage and with them all the fine feeder roots that support the tree with moisture and nutrients. If you were to peel back the sod and soil to expose the entire root system, I am sure you would find large roots extending well out beyond the tree canopy - I doubt the tree would have survived this long without them. There is nothing you need or should do at this point - the tree is self-sustaining. If you have questions about its structural integrity - the possibility that it could blow down in a storm - then you may want to have the tree examined by a certified arborist who is skilled in hazard assessment. This is not your average Joe Blow tree-trimmer but a highly trained tree professional. There is a BIG difference!!

your pic doesnt get bigger when i click on it ... so i cant really focus on it.. even if i put my nose on the screen.. lol .. the issue for me .... how much of the root mass would you be removing??? if this would take away 10% or less of the root mass.. who cares.. do whatever you want ... if in doing so.. you remove half the root mass ... i might suggest that would not be approved ... since on digging it up [it sounds like you moved it on your property.. rather than brought in a potted tree???] .. on digging it up.. you already cut off a lot of the root mass ... does that make any sense.. or should i try again ... i suppose roots dont blow in the wind.. hopefully.. lol ... and ergo.. dont really rub on each other to create a wound .. im not sure it matters with roots .... see pic for how a silver maple laid its roots on top of each other .. ken the pic isnt quite what i had hoped.. but hopefully you get my drift ...