Well, here is the result of a little experiment using cuttings from heartleaf philodendron. I'll note here that is is not "good" science, because among other things the number of cuttings was small. But it is suggestive.... I tried rooting four cuttings, each with only one smallish leaf. Two cuttings were each just a leaf on an internode section (vine, but no node), and two were a leaf, short bit of internode, and a node. I used a gel form of IBA-plus-fungicide. I cut the pieces with a sharp clean knife, and immediately dipped either the node or the end of the internode into the gel, then put it into a shallow "hole" in the growing medium in the pot where my other heartleaf philly vines are growing wonderfully. I then packed the soil in snugly around the base of each cutting. I made sure the area where these new cuttings had been inserted stayed moist, while avoiding drowning of the cutting ends by overwatering. I waited two weeks. Three of the cuttings dried out and pretty well died (i.e., bottom portions turned coppery colored, then shrivelled and dried out). One - with a node - took root nicely. On pulling out the three dead cuttings, it turned out that one of the two internode cuttings had indeed grown a few root hairs - but apparently not fast enough to bring sufficient water into the cutting and prevent its demise. This little informal experiment suggests to me that internode cuttings treated with IBA can develop root hairs. But possibly cuttings without IBA treatment would have done just as well (?). It also suggests that a cutting WITH a node has a better chance of rooting. As I mentioned, this was simply an easy-to-do informal trial, and was good for stimulating a bit of reflection. I welcome anybody who has experimented more extensively with IBA or vine cuttings (or anything related) to post here about what they've observed. Happy houseplant growing..... Joel

Thistle, sure I wouldn't mind--it's nothing complicated at all. I normally keep mine outside until it gets close to when we will recieve our first frost. I think doing so helps prepare the vine for dormancy or semi-dormancy. The vines, which have normally grown so long that they are attached to any nearby growing trees and shrubs, are clipped back so they are just at the top of the poles I have in my pot. The pot is then moved into my unheated garage which has southern exposure via the garage windows facing south where it sets until the following spring. The garage is uninsulated and the door is opened several times a day all winter long so the plant does experience near freezing temps at points over the winter. The residual heat from the two cars that are parked in the car daily helps to raise the temps a bit over the winter but there are no heating ducts in the garage. After first being moved into the garage, the plant will still attempt to grow due to the warmer temps in the garage and the available sunlight. I continue to water the plant at this stage just enough to keep the soil moist, but more on the dryish side so I may water twice a month or so. At some point over the winter when the temps gets low enough, the vines stop growing and the leaves will begin yellowing and falling off--this normally happens over the course of several weeks. Don't be alarmed at this at all-has happened to mine both years I have overwintered it. At this point (when the leaves start yellowing and falling off), I cut way back on watering the pot---maybe once a month or so. As spring approaches with warmer temps, I start back up the watering when I see evidence of new leaf and vine growth starting--twice a month or so. Once temps have warmed back up to where it is safe to move outside, I cut off most of the growth since if I move it outside all at once, the new leaves and vines formed will be sunburned. I also remove any dead vines that might be present. I have been rather severe in cutting back vines-both old and new- and not had it affect the plants at all. Once outside, I resume watering and begin fertilizing as needed. I personally don't try and move it back and forth outside on warmer days and inside on colder days in the early spring because I don't want the plant to use its energy reserves producing foliage prematurely that will be cut off prior to moving it back outside permanently in the spring. Hope this helps. If you need any more information, email me directly since I am leaving this morning for a vacation on the NC coast and won't be back until Sunday Oct 9th. I will try and answer any questions once I am back. Good luck with your Vigna caracalla plants!

I agree with Roxy. I have one, too, and it is eating my house. It has root in a crack in my back patio and up it went to the roof of our two-story home. I think it was awesome in many respects. It never needs water even in areas that are in full drought and do not supplement with water. I could not believe this thing. I had a black thumb back then, and even I didn't kill this thing. It makes a great, very quick screen if you want to grow it for covering an ugly fence or what have you. I don't know what you mean, though, that you asked for tips and never got your question answered as that seems like exactly what you were given.... tons of tips... LOL... although my big tip is that this plant doesn't need tips to grow. I dare you to try to kill it after planting it directly in the ground where you want it. Honestly, plant it, water occasionally or not, and this thing will grow and grow well. ~Angela

yes, you can air-layer it, but you would have to do it on older woody growth. very young green stems do not work well for air layers or cuttings. cuttings usually root pretty easy. keep warm and humid. one way, is simply by taking a vine and training it along the ground, and putting soil on top a section of it... add a little much or leaves on top so it doesnt dry out. roots should form soon.