Yes, your tree is definitely dying (or might be completely dead at this point). It would have been better to allow your fig tree to remain dormant over the winter rather than try to keep it active and growing indoors. Here is what I would do now: Starting from the top of the tree prune all branches that are black. Continue working down the tree pruning all of the branches until you reach an area where the branches are still alive. You can tell if the branch is still alive by scratching the surface skin/bark with a fingernail.....if it is green beneath the scratch...that branch is still alive. Continue to remove all branches that are black/dead (i.e. all of those branches which do not have any green layer under the bark/skin layer). Even if all of the branches above the soil line appear dead and have to be removed, do not give up hope. It is still possible that a portion of the roots are still alive. After removing all of the dead branches, water your tree well. Take it "outdoors" ASAP and place it in a sunny area on the southern side of your house. Keep it close to a wall if possible. If any portion of your tree is still alive, it likely will send up shoots within a few weeks. Best of luck to you........

This plant is not particularly happy inside, unless you have the right conditions for it. These would include a great deal of direct sunlight, high humidity, a fast draining potting medium, and coolish temperatures. Oleanders are plants that do not require a great deal of water, especially when grown under less than ideal conditions. It would be more likely that you are over watering than under watering. As far as frostbite goes, when planted outside they can take temperatures well below freezing with no damage, but I suppose if you have single pane windows, damage could occur to those leaves touching the glass.

The center top short branch seems to have some kind of fungus issue (blacken); I would remove this. The weird branch: It happened to my Lancetilla too. I think what happened was the tree tried to push out flower a bit later in the season or when the young tree already had a fruit or more and it lacked of energy to push out the flower buds, plus with exposed to direct hot sun, a section of the trunk below it got injured from sun radiation and limited the flow of nutrient to the weird branch. The growing cells was in a limbo state and became cancerous. I cut it off recently to promote new grow shoots. If you keep it I think eventually it will push out some undeveloped flower but go nowhere.

Hi invar - no, the 20 gallon edward is going in the ground as to all my mangos here in Palm Springs. We get occasional frost but usually only once or twice a winter so most of the trees will sustain minimal damage, though my small ones I definitely cover. The custom graft thing - I have sort of just heard that he does that but haven't asked him directly. A direct call is best, but as Zands says the communication can be dicey. I would talk to Gilbert over Tom. I think there is the slightest edge to his english.... I think the flavor of the Edward will be grand once I taste one! I've heard nothing but exquisite things said about it, and yes I saw Dr. Crane slobber and drool when he ate that edward, too. My friend JFernandez told me that he knows someone here in SoCal that grows Edwards and doesn't have the spotty, inconsistent crop yields that are advertised with it...He apparently has large amounts of fruits, so maybe they flourish in this drier climate down here. Just a guess.... Hey Zands - I've heard that before that Mimosa gets Pine Island 3 gallon plants and then nurtures them into these larger plants in huge plastic pots. I don't know if that is true, although he has told me he gets plants from Florida, but I don't know what size. Maybe JFernandez would know......but like you say, if he does nurture them to that size, he appears to be doing a great job. they appear robust, but I do have this feeling they haven't been in the 20 gal. containers for very long...just too much loose soil around the top. I've now bought 3 of these largest size trees because I needed more mature specimens to replace 3 acacias (I think) I have in front that I am so tired of getting scratched to death when I have to trim them back every year...and they drop these brown pods - really do belong out in the African savannah - I have no idea why they are cultivated for the home yard.....the second reason i got them big was to have fruit almost immediately as I didn't want to wait. I have 6 or 7 trees that are under 3-4 feet which I will just have to watch grow for the next 2-3 years before I can raid their spoils....!!!!! And that's my share on the day of Christ's rising.... Peace to All - mangosleighdog