We went through considering every type of flooring for our kitchen, entry, hall and bath and in the end chose LVT. Definitely not cheap. We got the Mannington Adura because we finally found the color and design we liked in that brand. This is glued down and grouted. Not long enough to say how it will wear but it survived them moving the appliances in and out with a dolly. We have a dog and also didn't want anything too cold. Unless you get down and touch it, ours looks like ceramic tile. We thought about a wood look but too hard to find one we liked with wood cabinets. We did find one we liked in Pergo XP (laminate) and my tests on that (including soaking it in water) made me think that would be a good option too. It would definitely have been cheaper.

Reducers normally sit at the threshold...not on the inside or the outside of a door. The placement of the reducer is making this awkward. In your your last photo, you can clearly see the door-stop running down to middle of your jam. It almost reaches the floor (it is painted white). That's the TRADITIONAL place for a floor to 'end' and another to begin. In other words, the wood floor runs too far into the bathroom. The original floor was probably a stone or a tile that was FIXED (glued/mortared/etc). And the two could have butted up against each other....which makes this look fine. But the floor height variance you have created makes this an 'ugly' look. The best fix is a bit of trim (are you going to add baseboards in the bathroom?). This takes quite a bit of skill to cut back the trim on the door to fit in your chosen baseboard. The biggest reason it looks 'ugly' is the reducer stops at the door trim...and there is NOTHING hiding the expansion gap at the wall. This will require some baseboards and some trimming back of the door trim to make this look good. And that's the main reason why floors normally start AND STOP in the middle of a doorway and not on either side of it. It keeps the 'trim' on walls and doors in tact and easy to deal with. I'm not too sure how much skill your handy man has. I would not let him cut the trim (or the wood floor back) on the door before you find out if he can accomplish the look that is required.

Nope...no fix. You have 'polished' up a bit of the SUPER DULL finish on the LVP. The matte finish is easy to 'polish' with little feet on furniture. This is a change in GLOSS not a gouge, etc. The fix = do nothing. To be clear, this would have happened on ANY super dull/matte finish floor. It isn't the LVP's fault, it is the GLOSS LEVEL of the LVP. A satin or semigloss finish (not available right now) would have hidden that little gem quite nicely.

I should have written that they said we'd need a contractor to flatten the floor. Right now our dining area sits mostly flat (shown with primarily 1/8 measurements) and our kitchen side has primarily 3/4 measurements. So a cross section would show flat dining sloped down to flat kitchen. We need to blend the two sides in that transition section. We just aren't sure if that will be flat enough. The funny thing is the flooring rep gave us a quote and was ready to set up installation until we brought the flaws to their attention. What would they have done if we just had gone ahead with ordering and installation. Would installers just put it in?